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  • hello sir , i noticed your message about leaving chicago . i am in downers grove and need supplies . you can get a hold of me here or at my email where i could give you a phone # if necessary . p e t e y t w o f i n g e r at yahoo dot com . i have transportation , willing to come whenever . please let me know , thanks , pete .
  • Hey, thanks!  It plays really well, too - a bonus!
  • Scotty,

    Your Pearl Caddy looks great, but you are right. I am more into playing than building. What I am really looking for is a more traditional looking CB Bass made from a wooden CB with natural wood finish. I want it fretless and I think 4 strings. I am just starting to research this but am finding it difficult to find someone who is  currently building and selling this type of instrument. I can find many CBG makers but it seems basses are more rare. Maybe there is a higher degree of difficulty because of the higher string tension.   

  • Hi Scotty,

    Thanks for the comment. I have considered making one myself but I am just not quite sure of how to make sure that everything is going to end up right. I have heard that it takes several builds to make enough mistakes to get to a good one. What is your take on this.

  • Hi Scotty!

    Thanks for stopping by. F-hole secrets? Well, i cut them with this: http://www.madshrimps.be/files/images/howto/Budget_Shark_Cu-jmke-38...

    And i took it slow and easy and tried not to cuss too much!

  • Scotty, don't know if I'll ever go for the router.  I use that $6 scraper tool from Stanley for shaping the back of the neck and that plus sandpaper is about it.  But I do have a mind to look into spoke shaves and like that.

     

    But I'll be looking to see yours done with a router at our next gathering!

  • Hi Scotty.

    Thanks for the nice comments. I do angle the neck but I don't know what the angle is.If I give you the relevant dimensions I think it will make sense. Where the neck meets the box the neck is also level with the top of the box. The fretboard is higher and is 6mm thick. The frets are medium so I think they are about 1mm high so that makes the frets about 7mm above the top surface of the box. If I site along the neck from the nut towards the box the top of the fretboard is almost level with the top of the box, so that means that they neck is angled back by about 6mm from where it comes out of the box to where the nut is. I hope this makes sense. The height of the strings above the fretboard at the nut it just under 2mm and the height at the 12th fret is just under 4.5mm between the string and the fretboard (so just under 3.5mm from string to top of the 12 fret). The string height at the bridge is about 14mm.

    Sorry but that's a lot of numbers and I hope they are helpful. I am pretty much a novice builder and only just starting to learn to play the thing. Having said that I seem to be finding this one quite easy to play so maybe the action is about right. I suppose time will tell. Good luck with the making.

    All the best.

    John

  • Yes, I have a very nice amp - Fender late 60's silverface tube amp.
  • Thanks.  Appreciate it.
  • All my squares are 9.75" wide by 16.75" long.  I go about it different than most.I use three pieces of lumber... Two that are 1/4" thick and one that is anywhere from 1.5 to 2 inches thick.  The thick one gets cut so that it forms the sides, neck pocket and base... then I essentially sandwich that in between the two 1/4 inch slabs.  Fairly easy process.
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