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Cincinnati, OH
Birthday:
March 1
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Gender
Male
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Birthday:
March 1
You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!
Comments are closed.
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sorry so late answering. if I can help in any way, just email.
Howdy Jose, thanks for the friendship
Thank you Jose for your friendship. I like to use strings ADg medium gauge and tune GDg (CD 4) or ADf# (CD 6) Two different tuning using the same strings!!! Please check out my instructional video CDs : http://www.ebay.com/sch/njmikeb/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from... / Feel free to write if any questions arise or if I can be of further assistance. Enjoy, Keni Lee
Hi Jose, Glenn Reither is far more an expert on stretch compensation but I'll answer your question as best I can. I always double check intonation at the 12th fret as the stretch compensation calculators do not take into account string gauge or bridge height.
I have yet to replicate a build so each of mine have different scale bridge heights. I use a fret calculator that is available for free through Google made by a Japanese guy that have more variables and I find it more accuate than the exmi for what I do. So I mark my fretboard string up and pop a temp fret made of a filed down meat scewer with a hefty sized elastic band on it and place it on the 12th fret and do any adjustments to the bridge placement that might be necessary. Once that is sorted I slide my temp fret up to each position to double check the position of each fret using a tuner. Possibly overkill but I get more accurate intonation that way.
Dovetail
Hi Jose,
I think most builders go for the through neck design because it is the easiest build option.The box just hangs there as a resonator and does not need any strength.
On the guitar you like (no.14) the neck is fitted using the traditional spanish method, the end block/neck are one piece and slotted to take the box end (see photo) I've also used the other trad method using a tapered dovetail joint with equal success in either case the box needs to be reinforced so that it is rigid.
As for a bolt on neck I'm sure if you used a hardwood end block recessed to take the neck it would work well.Though I don't see the point when the trad methods are so simple (unless you want to use a bought neck)
No.14 is the best acoustically I've built but this probably has more to do with the better quality materials and construction than the sound hole.
Hope this is of help....Regards Michael
Thank you for the invitation
Loved it when you played for my Dome homies, the 'Stros! Thanks for the gladly-accepted Friend request. As regards stretch fret intonation, haven't got a clue. I could guess, but that's all it would be. Are you talking about fanned frets, and how to intonate a git with those? Same again, never done fanned frets, but could theorize about how they should work. Are you talking about individually compensated frets? Never done those either. There are people here who have. You might talk to The Phrygian Kid about fanned frets and how to intonate such a beast. There are also websites where the builders give a pretty good idea about how they do it.
Hi Jose,
Yes, the advantage of stretch-compensated frets is that you can set your action a little higher (gives better tone and easier slide playing) while still getting good intonation. So how high is high? The highest I have done that still frets in tune is 3mm above fingerboard at 1st fret, 5.5 mm at 17th fret. That's pretty dang high, but my pro guitar touring god buddy just got a custom Tele made and his action is about the same, so it's not completely crazy. Probably intonation problems will come more from pulling or pushing the string sideways than the action height itself, but that is easier to do on higher actions of course.
String gauge will have an influence too. Heavier gauge will suffer more stretch effect (sharp) because it is under more tension. I use medium range tensions according to this VERY useful tension calculator:
http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com/stringxxiii.html
And for those who don't know the Exmi fret calc with the stretch comp option:
http://windworld.com/features/tools-resources/exmis-fret-placement-...
Enjoy.
Hi, Jose:
I am a big fan of zero fret building, much easier to get low action on the first try. Cutting a nut just right is a big hurdle for me. I use low/narrow fretwire for the neck, and jumbo pyramid fretwire for the nut. I file in just a tiny notch for each string so they stay in place. Using this method you have to be sure the angle from the nut to the tuning peg is fairly straight so the string is not encouraged to hop out of its notch. But that can be easily remedied by putting a tiny screw as a string guide. If you look at my photos, there are closeups of heads of different styles, but they all have zero frets. And some also have screw string guides.
Happy building!
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