Comments

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  Roadkill a.k.a. John Maw March 29, 2011 at 2:39pm

  Hi Alan.

  I'll tell you what I do. I let it make contact at the very ends. About a 4 or 5mm strip at either end (similar to the thickness of the sides of the box) so that the bridge pressure pushes the box and the neck together. The rest is cut back enough to allow the lid to vibrate free. I have seen them glued and even just screwed together and seen examples where that works too, but I'm not going to repeat the CBG mantra of "no rules".

  All the best.

  John
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  Keni Lee Burgess March 18, 2011 at 6:31am

  Thank you Alan for joining my group. Please feel free to write if you have any questions. Enjoy.
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  Cogdell boy (Robert J.) March 9, 2011 at 4:12pm

  Alan, I got me a fret chart from www.harpkit.com .. cost me $12.00 and has been one of the best investments and tools that I have . I Use it on every build and it's so easy to use ..I think it goes from 13" up to a 38" fret board in 1/2 inch incliments.If you know what length fret board you want just find it on the scale , place it on your fret board and mark it off .. Plus it has a fretting guide on it also ... Great tool hope this helps ..\
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  Hank Bruner March 7, 2011 at 11:55pm

  Hi, just wanted to say a word about fret marking. Uncle Crow has a nice little video about how to build 3 stringers, he explains very nicely how to mark frets with a tape measure, and a calculator. Very simple to do, I know. I have used his method on every build so far, and it always come out right. Basicly you measure from the nut where it meets the neck, to where you want your bridge. The front of the bridge. Use centimeters, not inches. Say 60 centimeters, then multiply by 0.9439= 56.6 cent. rounded make your first mark going from the nut. multiply 56.6x 0.9439= 53.5 rounded, make next mark. continue this to end of neck, or as far as you want to go. 12th fret should be exact middle between nut and bridge. Good luck! Hank