Thanks for the plans, this is very similar to the ones I have been building for a couple of years. One thing I have found out is to use a pop rivet (minus the nail) in the back of the can as a bushing for your string. It's not necessary to "pop" it in, just take it apart and use the rivet as your bushing. the left over nail can be used as a nut. Hope this helps someone. I also use these on all my 3 string guitars and mountain dulcimers.
Aluminum cans compared to "tin" (iron, stainless steel, whatever the alloy) cans will vibrate better/more easily because they are made from a lighter metal. If you look at the materials favored for spinning reso cones (ala Old Lowe's cones) aluminum is the favorite followed by brass. I'm told they give a bt different tone to the instruments, and this is probably true of aluminum verses steel cans.Thinner walled cans should vibrate better than thick ones given the same material and dimensions. Bigger cans are likely to resonate at lover frequencies better, and smaller cans at higher frequencies. But, most cans should work. Also, when I look for cans, I look for ones that will be easier to work with. Some have easy to remove tops (pop & peel off tops), which is easier to do as compared to using most can openers to cut off the top from a soda can.
These days, I am more likely to mount a wider can at right angles to the neck and use a regular bridge, allowing me to make a multi-stringed instrument more easily.
I also favor cans where the lip of the can is not raised very far off the surface of the "sound board" side of the can as they tend to press into the arm leaving marks on the arm and making playing them uncomfortable unless you make an arm rest (like I had to do for my dulcijo).
The can is secured by 2 screws between the side of the can that comes in contact with the neck and the neck. The screws are spaced maybe 2 inches apart. The screw furthest from the open side of the can can be a 'bitch' to get in. I have seen (an made) canjos with an extra tiny access hole at the top so this second screw can be screwed-in easier (and it doesn't seem to affect the sound quality). While I got started in instrument building making canjos, as soon as I discovered cigar boxes, I've been mostly making CBGs and 'home-made box' guitars since. The other resonator that I've fooled with that seems pretty good is a cookie/cake tin with the metal sound board replace by a 2mm thick piece of ply veneer (as I used on my dulcijo). Canjos are great for introducing kids to musical instruments (making and playing), but I would suggest a shorter scale length and nylon strings for kids (smaller hands and tender fingers).
Hi Wes,
Oh, was it you who I stole this canjo plan from? Sorry.
Comments
Thanks for the plans, this is very similar to the ones I have been building for a couple of years. One thing I have found out is to use a pop rivet (minus the nail) in the back of the can as a bushing for your string. It's not necessary to "pop" it in, just take it apart and use the rivet as your bushing. the left over nail can be used as a nut. Hope this helps someone. I also use these on all my 3 string guitars and mountain dulcimers.
Hi Mikey,
Aluminum cans compared to "tin" (iron, stainless steel, whatever the alloy) cans will vibrate better/more easily because they are made from a lighter metal. If you look at the materials favored for spinning reso cones (ala Old Lowe's cones) aluminum is the favorite followed by brass. I'm told they give a bt different tone to the instruments, and this is probably true of aluminum verses steel cans.Thinner walled cans should vibrate better than thick ones given the same material and dimensions. Bigger cans are likely to resonate at lover frequencies better, and smaller cans at higher frequencies. But, most cans should work. Also, when I look for cans, I look for ones that will be easier to work with. Some have easy to remove tops (pop & peel off tops), which is easier to do as compared to using most can openers to cut off the top from a soda can.
These days, I am more likely to mount a wider can at right angles to the neck and use a regular bridge, allowing me to make a multi-stringed instrument more easily.
I also favor cans where the lip of the can is not raised very far off the surface of the "sound board" side of the can as they tend to press into the arm leaving marks on the arm and making playing them uncomfortable unless you make an arm rest (like I had to do for my dulcijo).
-Rand.
Hi Mikey,
The can is secured by 2 screws between the side of the can that comes in contact with the neck and the neck. The screws are spaced maybe 2 inches apart. The screw furthest from the open side of the can can be a 'bitch' to get in. I have seen (an made) canjos with an extra tiny access hole at the top so this second screw can be screwed-in easier (and it doesn't seem to affect the sound quality). While I got started in instrument building making canjos, as soon as I discovered cigar boxes, I've been mostly making CBGs and 'home-made box' guitars since. The other resonator that I've fooled with that seems pretty good is a cookie/cake tin with the metal sound board replace by a 2mm thick piece of ply veneer (as I used on my dulcijo). Canjos are great for introducing kids to musical instruments (making and playing), but I would suggest a shorter scale length and nylon strings for kids (smaller hands and tender fingers).
Hi Wes,
Oh, was it you who I stole this canjo plan from? Sorry.
-Rand.