Padron box, mahogany neck (with steel reinforcement), ebony fretboard, maple veneer on head and pickup surround, humbucker pickup and two piezos wired in parallel under the brass bridge plate. The adjustable bridge is ebony and brass with phosphor bronze saddle pieces. Side fret markers and rivets (where the strings go into the box) are copper. It's still in need of a finished nut and a heel piece to cover the steel reinforcement.
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Thanks for your comments. I have also just sent this in response to the message you sent to me.
Getting the finish isn't difficult. I don't varnish (although the oil finish can be considered to be a sort of varnish). First thing is to prepare the neck well. I don't use any stain. What you see is just the wood. The main thing is to fill the grain well. Use either shellac or cellulose sanding sealer. Because I want to avoid dust I don't use it quite the way they say. I apply several coats until there is a bit of thickness (you will still see some grain at this stage) and then I use fairly fine steel wool and oil (Danish or Tung, but not Tru oil as it dries too fast) and cut down the sanding sealer until is it completely smooth. Because I am using oil as a lubricant there is no dust in the air and you can work without a mask. On flat surfaces like the front of the head I may use paper on a block (again with oil) to keep the edges from rounding too much, but elsewhere I use the steel wool as it is faster and easier.
Wipe the oil off and let it dry completely (a few days) then use a few coats of Tru oil (half a day between coats). You can leave it with a hard shine, but I don't want that and I take a little of the shine off with ultra-fine steel wool and floor wax (choose floor wax because it dries hard).
Comments
Sorry to disappoint you Dan. They aren't nipples. They are copper pop rivets. Talk to you soon.
I like your nipples, great color.
Hi Ian.
You are very kind and far too complimentary. I will get even more big headed if I am not careful.
Thanks and all the best.
John
That is a bloody work of art,
True craftsmanship, well thought out your a complete artist you make great music and great guitars,
Awesome
Thanks very much Jef. Your comments are always appreciated.
Hi Paul.
Thank you very much for the really nice comments.
All the best.
John
That's a real pretty and creative build and the fact that it turned out sounding good is the best reward.
Hi Richard.
Thanks for your comments. I have also just sent this in response to the message you sent to me.
Getting the finish isn't difficult. I don't varnish (although the oil finish can be considered to be a sort of varnish). First thing is to prepare the neck well. I don't use any stain. What you see is just the wood. The main thing is to fill the grain well. Use either shellac or cellulose sanding sealer. Because I want to avoid dust I don't use it quite the way they say. I apply several coats until there is a bit of thickness (you will still see some grain at this stage) and then I use fairly fine steel wool and oil (Danish or Tung, but not Tru oil as it dries too fast) and cut down the sanding sealer until is it completely smooth. Because I am using oil as a lubricant there is no dust in the air and you can work without a mask. On flat surfaces like the front of the head I may use paper on a block (again with oil) to keep the edges from rounding too much, but elsewhere I use the steel wool as it is faster and easier.
Wipe the oil off and let it dry completely (a few days) then use a few coats of Tru oil (half a day between coats). You can leave it with a hard shine, but I don't want that and I take a little of the shine off with ultra-fine steel wool and floor wax (choose floor wax because it dries hard).
That's it. I hope that helps. All the best.
John
RK ,, what are u using to geet such a beautiful sheen on ur neck ?? That is about bestest one i've seen ..
what type stain,, finish u use? so i can copy a masterpiece!!!!
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