If you don't use a jig, you have to make sure that the saw is square to the wood in multiple axes. You don't want to wobble the blade when you cut, or you can end up with the slot too loose, and the fret won't sit tightly and you wind up having to glue it.
You can get by without the depth guide, but I choose not to. If you plot the holes correctly, you can make your own out of a scrap piece of plexiglass or thin wood.
I also made the fretboard jig shown in this video:
Depending on the thickness of your fretboards, you can go ahead and cut the fret slots in advance, then glue them down. So, I guess you can really do them either way, cut them before or after gluing. I suppose it really depends on the neck you are using. Since I always use 1x2s, I can cut them after they are glued.
Okay, yeah, that makes sense. The other thing is, I did spring for the StewMac fretsaw, but I didn't get the one with the depth guides! There are holes for the depth guide, but not the thing itself. So I guess I need to buy that too.
I almost always do laminated fretboards, even though the video may be a one piece version. I try to make sure the fretboard material is as flat as possible, then glue it to the neck. Then, I double check the flatness one more time before I cut the fret slots. I found that cutting the slots before I glue the fretboard in place made it a bit flimsy and prone to breaking.
If you are doing a tapered neck, then you may want to cut the fret slots before you glue it to the neck so you can use a square. Then you just glue it down, and when it is dry, just cut it to the taper and sand it all flush.
Comments
If you don't use a jig, you have to make sure that the saw is square to the wood in multiple axes. You don't want to wobble the blade when you cut, or you can end up with the slot too loose, and the fret won't sit tightly and you wind up having to glue it.
I played around with the fretsaw on some scrap, and I am definitely going to have to build that jig, Dan. I just do not have the motor skills yet!
Oh, that's cool, Michael. Looks pretty straightforward.
This is the fret jig I use. Two lengths of left over tile edging screwed to a base board
Dan, super cool video on that jig. That is a must have now in my shop. Thanks for the share.
Yea, I can fret slot a board in under 5 minutes with it.
If I build another one, I will make it so that it is expandable to larger width fret boards. The one I made is too narrow for a full sized fret board.
Oh, that jig is a great idea.
You can get by without the depth guide, but I choose not to. If you plot the holes correctly, you can make your own out of a scrap piece of plexiglass or thin wood.
I also made the fretboard jig shown in this video:
http://youtu.be/OCKR75uJ-ug
Depending on the thickness of your fretboards, you can go ahead and cut the fret slots in advance, then glue them down. So, I guess you can really do them either way, cut them before or after gluing. I suppose it really depends on the neck you are using. Since I always use 1x2s, I can cut them after they are glued.
Okay, yeah, that makes sense. The other thing is, I did spring for the StewMac fretsaw, but I didn't get the one with the depth guides! There are holes for the depth guide, but not the thing itself. So I guess I need to buy that too.
Lisa,
I almost always do laminated fretboards, even though the video may be a one piece version. I try to make sure the fretboard material is as flat as possible, then glue it to the neck. Then, I double check the flatness one more time before I cut the fret slots. I found that cutting the slots before I glue the fretboard in place made it a bit flimsy and prone to breaking.
If you are doing a tapered neck, then you may want to cut the fret slots before you glue it to the neck so you can use a square. Then you just glue it down, and when it is dry, just cut it to the taper and sand it all flush.
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