Glad to know that info. was of some help. The blade and set-up really makes a difference, and sometimes you don't really notice the steady drop-off in performance as the blade wears out.
I bought a Sealey bandsaw new last year and it has speeded up many jobs and does them more accurately than i could do with a handsaw - like CBJ says setting up and a good new blade is critical to its operation. This is a small one but enough to work on an Oak 1 1/2" guitar neck easily enough and small pieces of wood, but watch your fingers...! a tool is provided for feeding wood past the blade, go SLOWLY and let the blade do the work. (-:
David Bowes > Slowpaw Steve TJanuary 24, 2014 at 3:37pm
I think I will wait until spring when I hope to build a new shed and see what space I have when finished. In the meantime I do have a small second hand band-saw, but can not get it to cut straight,I will have another go at setting it up
All bandsaws suffer from "drift", ie not cutting straight and they need setting up to correct or reduce this. The first thing to do is make sure you've got a decent blade in there. If it's old and worn that can make it worse. I've had blades custom-made for my saw from these people http://www.justbandsawblades.co.uk - you can choose the length, width & teeth per inch from a range of manufacturers' bladestock and they aren't particularly expensive at about £15 each including VAT & delivery for a 93 1/4" blade. If you install a new blade, then check the guides, blade tension and the tracking of the main wheels you should be able to get it to work a lot better.
If you do look at getting a new machine, be wary of the claims of what thickness it can saw - just because you can get a 150mm thick piece of timber through it doesn't mean the motor will have enough punch to cut it. A powerful motor is what you need for cutting hardwood. A decently long blade and ideally cast iron drive wheels also help.
By the way, amazingly quick service from that company..ordered 2 blades at 1.00pm yesterday, arrived this morning at 10.00am!! And they weren't off the shelf, they had to cut and weld them to my spec!!!
David Bowes > ChickenboneJohnJanuary 24, 2014 at 3:36pm
CBJ
Thanks for the advice. I have ordered a new blade from them, hoping it makes a difference. I will need a new saw eventually as mine is just a light weigh hobby saw.
I agree with Chickenbone, the cheaper ones are not that good. Machine Mart may well have a reasonably priced one - I have an Electa Beckham 12 inch throat which is great and I would certainly recommend that brand
Hope you fiondsomething suitable
Regards
Doghouse
David Bowes > Doghouse DaveJanuary 24, 2014 at 3:38pm
Replies
I ordered a new band-saw blade from the supplier CBJ suggested, fitted it today and it has made a huge difference.
Glad to know that info. was of some help. The blade and set-up really makes a difference, and sometimes you don't really notice the steady drop-off in performance as the blade wears out.
I bought a Sealey bandsaw new last year and it has speeded up many jobs and does them more accurately than i could do with a handsaw - like CBJ says setting up and a good new blade is critical to its operation. This is a small one but enough to work on an Oak 1 1/2" guitar neck easily enough and small pieces of wood, but watch your fingers...! a tool is provided for feeding wood past the blade, go SLOWLY and let the blade do the work. (-:
Slopaw
Thanks I will have a closer look.
David
Thanks for the feed back.
I think I will wait until spring when I hope to build a new shed and see what space I have when finished. In the meantime I do have a small second hand band-saw, but can not get it to cut straight,I will have another go at setting it up
Thanks David.
All bandsaws suffer from "drift", ie not cutting straight and they need setting up to correct or reduce this. The first thing to do is make sure you've got a decent blade in there. If it's old and worn that can make it worse. I've had blades custom-made for my saw from these people http://www.justbandsawblades.co.uk - you can choose the length, width & teeth per inch from a range of manufacturers' bladestock and they aren't particularly expensive at about £15 each including VAT & delivery for a 93 1/4" blade. If you install a new blade, then check the guides, blade tension and the tracking of the main wheels you should be able to get it to work a lot better.
If you do look at getting a new machine, be wary of the claims of what thickness it can saw - just because you can get a 150mm thick piece of timber through it doesn't mean the motor will have enough punch to cut it. A powerful motor is what you need for cutting hardwood. A decently long blade and ideally cast iron drive wheels also help.
By the way, amazingly quick service from that company..ordered 2 blades at 1.00pm yesterday, arrived this morning at 10.00am!! And they weren't off the shelf, they had to cut and weld them to my spec!!!
CBJ
Thanks for the advice. I have ordered a new blade from them, hoping it makes a difference. I will need a new saw eventually as mine is just a light weigh hobby saw.
David
Hi David
I agree with Chickenbone, the cheaper ones are not that good. Machine Mart may well have a reasonably priced one - I have an Electa Beckham 12 inch throat which is great and I would certainly recommend that brand
Hope you fiondsomething suitable
Regards
Doghouse
Doghouse
Thanks, I am doing some more research.
David