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What can you make with the smallest tins of them all?

I just finished the 2nd version of a 17" two-stringer, and I'll be making a batch for a summer camp -- floating instruments that drift from tent to tent.













It is hard to get a good break angle over the bridge, you have to cut the tail section lower than the tin.  I don't think the tin is strong enough to anchor the strings.



So far I like the altoid-tar more than a soup/veg/soda can build because you can have a floating bridge for better intonation.  That plus the added bonus of ease of play - no dang can in the way!

Parts list for a two-string, diatonic fretted build:

2 tuners --                     $1.50 each from CBGitty
2 strings -                      $1.00 each
1 1x2 stick, 36"              $2.50 from Home Depot
narrow/low fretwire --   $1.00, it doesn't take much!
mint tin                          free, if you're watching for them  (or ebay, in a pinch)
two #8 bolts/nuts           $.50, but are probably some laying around the workshop
scrap for the bridge         free

Grand total                      $9.00


Make a few and pay them forward!

(I'm tuning G C, and writing the notes right on the fingerboard with a paint marker.  I'm hoping that is just the nudge a kid needs to pick it up and run with it.  And also so it is easily tuned -- just match the C on the low string to the main melody string.)

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Replies

  • Hi Paul.

    The string size depends a bit on the scale length (VSL) and a bit on what sound you are going for. I made one of these using a similar Altoids sized tin as a practice "guitar" for my young daughter. It has a short 38 cm scale length, 2 strings, Uke tuners, diatonically fretted with real fret wire and I used strings 1 and 2 from a set of ukulele 4 strings. The resulting instrument was easy to play, but w/o amplification, it was suitable for playing only to yourself in a quiet room. I subsequently replaced the Altoids can with a tuna can and it proved somewhat louder. Maybe when I get back into building piezo-based pickups I'll put one in. As it is now, my girl only occasionally plays with it, and then more as a toy than a real instrument. She seems more interested in the piano, so I'll teach her some songs and some music theory first on the piano and then show her how it works on a stick dulcimer. Here's a photo showing it and another small practice "guitar":

    240457221?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

    Back to you question, the Strothers' Web Site has a String Gauge Calculator which you can use to more "scientifically" determine the string size to use, rather than "winging it" a I usually do. Don't be "put off" by this being a mountain dulcimer, the same calculations are valid for guitars, banjos, canjos and most other stringed instruments. You need to provide the "scale length" and the "open tuning" you are planning to use for each string. Play around with the calculator, as it is quite simple to use. Since the Altoids sized tins are so small, expect to use thin solid wire strings (maybe banjo strings), and the range of the instrument will be pretty high pitched.

    -Rand.

  • Nice design.  What size strings do you use?

  • With a tin, you don't really need a soundhole, but some people put one in.
  •    I love this design Diane-but where are you putting the soundhole...or does this design even need it?

     

  • I just bought a couple of Prince Edwards Tobacco tins. Thet cost three bucks each at the antique mall. I can remember using them for hip pocket tackel boxes when I use to go fishing. I dont remember if they still make them or not so I bought a couple and think I will use them for a two stringer when I get my other projects finished up.
  • Rand, I'm pretty new at this stuff, but I've experimented with several different types of boards and resonators on d-bows. The best board I've found is an oak floor board. The best resonator I've found is a small cleaning fluid can that's similar in size to an altoids tin. I haven't tried an Altoids tin yet, but I highly recommend oak flooring!

    Rand Moore said:
    I've been reading about diddley-bows on CBN and this "floorboard idea" seems best suited to making "diddley boards". So, I'll probably do one once I'm back home in China.


    Rand Moore said:
    That's an idea. Floor boards. In China, floor board is probably the best "wood" to work with. Some brands are certainly strong enough. I just can't find any source for decent wood. My limited "survival" Chinese language skills don't help matters. Two of my three finished canjos were build out of broom handles (nicely finished broom handles that I bought for about $5 US a piece, and the third is made of soft pine. Soft pine is easy to work with, but I have had some problems with the wood splitting. So, one of these days, when I have access to a wood shop (or just a Chinese carpenter), I'll try cutting down the floorboard into more friendly dimensions to work on.


    Joker said:
    Altoids tin, discarded floorboard, deer antler and piezo

  • There are a lot of tins in this size, I have 2 that had tea in them(not much tea though) and sucrets came in them years ago, not sure if they still do. Got so many cigar box's I may never build one of these, But I think I will save the tin's just in case.
  • You HAVE to try the etching thing! We did it with a car battery recharger and a vat of salt water and it worked great on both copper and aluminum.

    Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try!


    Nick Shenfield said:
    Diane,
    I found this website detailing a method to etch Altoids tin. It starts with getting the paint off using "Paint & Epoxy Remover". Could also help solve your "not very arty" problem.

    Nick.

    Diane in Chicago said:
    I have a stash of newer Altoid tins, the chocolate kind with a brown and gold labling. However the tops are embossed, which I think is going to cause problems with the bridge. I'm going to try buffing off the label on the bottom, (which is not really a label but the painted-on kind) and use it upside down. I have put a piece of felt between the tin and the wood on the other instruments, which will be even more important if the tin is embossed.

    Anyone know of another way of getting the "paint" off? I'd leave it, but it is nutritional info and a barcode - not very arty.
  • I have a stash of newer Altoid tins, the chocolate kind with a brown and gold labling. However the tops are embossed, which I think is going to cause problems with the bridge. I'm going to try buffing off the label on the bottom, (which is not really a label but the painted-on kind) and use it upside down. I have put a piece of felt between the tin and the wood on the other instruments, which will be even more important if the tin is embossed.

    Anyone know of another way of getting the "paint" off? I'd leave it, but it is nutritional info and a barcode - not very arty.

    Jordan Burk said:
    I also just found a Altoids tin in the house that is in great shape, and still full of slightly stale mints.

    Diane in Chicago said:
    Have at it! You can go even smaller, maybe 15".

  • I also just found a Altoids tin in the house that is in great shape, and still full of slightly stale mints.

    Diane in Chicago said:
    Have at it! You can go even smaller, maybe 15".

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