OK - now I have your attention :)
I've been thinking recently about all of the conflicting advice I've seen about how long you need to clamp wood glue while its drying. Let's take it as read that I'm talking about white glue (Titebond, I currently have Titebond 3)
When I first started making CBGs (almost a year ago) I had literally no woodworking experience. The glue I bought said the curing time was 24 hours so I clamped the piece for that time. It was always a frustrating part of the build process.
A few months later I spoke to a joiner friend of mine and he said this was a bit daft. 24 hours is the curing time, but it doesn't need to be clamped that long. He said he usually leaves gluing as the last job of the day and will clamp overnight. At a push about 6 hours would do as long as the join is not stressed until the glue has cured.
I posed the same question to a couple of experienced builders on Ted's site, and they said 18-24 hours to clamp. I asked another and he said about 2-3 hours.
I asked a couple of guys on CBN and they said 4-6 hours.
For my last 5 of so builds I have been clamping for roughly 6 hours. For my design I need to glue the headstock, the heel and the fretboard, and by the time I'm ready to start carving, let alone string up (which I guess would 'stress the join') the glue will have well and truly cured. No bad side effects so far.
So... the question I'm asking, or the discussion I'm instigating, is how long should glued joints be clamped for making instruments? And hopefully when others come along in the future with the same question I had, they can have a good read of this topic and come away with a bit of insight.
Rick
Replies
As you say ideally the best way is to glue and clamp as the last job of the day, and leave overnight, but at times this does not fit into the time frame, I currently use GORILLA (white) WOOD GLUE, and take the clamps off an hour or so later, this then allows me to shape, route & sand etc; so far have not had any problems, but again as you say the join probably should not be stressed.
Titebond 3 clamp over night good to go. Of coarse you can't take it a part like Hide glue but has not failed me yet.
One thing not mentioned (and not asked, except in the title gluing and clamping) is a fairly comment mistake of clamping directly on top of the fretboard.. The use of a patten board to spread the load strsses will keep board for getting wavy from the force of individual clamps. And, single frets can be distorted by the force of a clamp placed full force on it.
I do overnight and that's airing on the side of caution. I have never had a glue joint fail.
Oops. I just jinxed my self.
Used to be my only build time was early morning or late evening. Typically got 6-8 hours cure that way. Seemed to work ok for me. I would stretch it out it I was working a joint, like drill machine head posts on paddle head glue lines.
oh yeah and i just clamp in the evening and work on my other cbg. i usually just work on two at a time twice the fun and excitement. and open the package after coffe and donuts in the morning .
cbj, thanks for hte info on the hide glue, I had ran that question acrossed the board a time back . and ended up using titebond on my last acustic bridge because i didnt want to use bottled hide glue. slowpaw awesome technique for keeping slipperyfretboards from drifting . thats my biggest pain in the rumpskin. Ted crocker also recommends a little salt or sand to keep from drifting. good tip too it works great so far. Eric ive never tried the trim and molding glue, the biggest headache i have is constantly cleaning the fretboard and neck joint with a moist towel during clamp up to keep all the titebond drizzle off of the neck.
I think the trim and moulding glue is OK for the fret board to neck. The excess cleans off easy with a chisel or plane. I find that sanding warms up the glue and makes it harder to clean off as it stretches and smears a little. Best to clean off the extra with a cutting operation first.
I may have used it on a scarf joint, but I prefer the yellow glue for that. I arrange my scarf joints to the fretboard is glued over the joint so there is probably plenty of strength either way with wood and glue on both sides. But if ya got the yellow stuff, use it. :)
To get over the impatience factor I do two things. First, as mentioned I try to glue up at the end of the day or before I'm switching gears to doing something else. Second, I get a stock of blanks glued up in sequence, even if I don't have immediate plans. If the clamps are empty, I try to come up with something to glue.
The necks I typically make are two pieces of 1x2 joined on the 2" face and sometimes with an intermediate 1/4" strip. I have a few of these just sitting around anytime I get the inspiration to start a new build. I'll make the scarf joint and glue on a peg head if there's another break in the action. About the only thing I consistently have to wait for is the fret board.
I use both Titebond II and the Titebond moulding and trim glue. The latter doesn't drip from the joint and dries clear. I always let the glue cure at least overnight before unclamping and because I'm not a selling builder, the glue gets a full week or more to cure before I string anything up and play.
Yesterday glued up about noon,went to the pub for the traditional sunday lunchtime session,siesta in the afternoon,took the clamps off this morning
-
1
-
2
-
3
-
4
of 4 Next