Ok, checked samples and plans but cant figure a few things out. A few pointers would be grand. Kindest, 1. THICKNESS - Boxes with paper wrap is pretty simple, they are fairly thin. But... Solid Wood boxes with hinges and clasps that I found are very thick. Wont this cause low volume and deeper sound? soundboard wood should typically be the thinner the better right? How does a newbie know what is ok thick, or too thick in solid boxes? 2. AFFIXING THE LIDS ? Clearly these all need to stay down. How are people doing it? Tack? Screws? Glue only (not so practical for paper wrapped). ?? PS- Anyone got wood glue favorites for their builds? Ok, thanks again Jim

You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!

Join Cigar Box Nation

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • For "what is too thinck" you might get an idea from giving the boxes a tap or a rap and compare that to a guitar, or another CBG that you have made previously.  If you think the lid is too thick, then the alternate to making an amp may be to make a simple resonator using a paint can lid, small tin, pot lid, or a proper spun cone.

     

    I generally use a few wood screws to hold down the lids.  Instead of quarter-rounds in the corners, I use some pine or poplar scraps around the perimeter of the box set in so they don't have much direct contact with the lid.  They make for good screw anchors in hardboard boxes.

     

    Carefully placed, the screws are almost not noticeable.  

     

     

     

    153276727?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024



  • Eric Wallace a.k.a.Godzilla said:
    .......and yer crappin' in tall cotton.
    ROTFLMAO!!
  • I screw some and not others, depends how well the string tension holds them in place. I have found the screwed lids improve the sound sometimes, louder and nicer tone.  Thinner lid is best for acoustic volume and tone, but if you are going for amped with piezo or mag pick ups the thick lids work well also, just turn up the volume! If the box is just to darn thick or odd shaped, make an amp out of it.
  • I concur with Wes and Diane on this one. Just countersink some old looking flathead screws and yer crappin' in tall cotton.
  • I screw the lids down similar to Diane all the time. Sounds good. Remember, these are cigar boxes, not Martins or Gibsons.

     

    -WY

     

    James Boutilier said:

    I thought the idea was to not have screws in the top ?

     

    But I too love the idea, so simple and secure !

  • If all your cigar boxes are too thick, consider removing the top and replacing it with 2mm ply (veneer). I have had good results building my boxes with thin ply (veneer).

    -Rand.

  • If the lid closes well on it's own (isn't warped) I usually just let the string tension on the bridge hold it closed. Almost any of my builds where you see a screw through the lid means it was a little bit warped.  I do follow the "screws not glues" mantra for lids though - always seems to be a reason to get back inside the box later for upgrades or tweaking.
  • I thought the idea was to not have screws in the top ?

     

    But I too love the idea, so simple and secure !

  • Ms Diane ,, another magnificent idea from u that i will definately use .. Thank u    rgc

    Diane in Chicago said:

    Yes, the thinner the better.  I like Padron boxes, for example, because they are very thin.  Those jagged Edge boxes, not so much.

     

    I generally put in corner supports made of quarter round or like that, and cut them just a hair or three short.  Then I screw the lid closed so it is very snug.  That way you can always get inside again if you need to.

  • Yes, the thinner the better.  I like Padron boxes, for example, because they are very thin.  Those jagged Edge boxes, not so much.

     

    I generally put in corner supports made of quarter round or like that, and cut them just a hair or three short.  Then I screw the lid closed so it is very snug.  That way you can always get inside again if you need to.

This reply was deleted.