Here is a wider angle shot showing the slotted headstock as well as the nut and 5th string tuner. You might be wondering why I use both silver and gold colored frets. The diatonic frets (natural notes) are gold while the accidental notes (frets) are silver. This allows a dulcimer player like myself to more easily adapt to a chromatic fretboard. I can play all my old dulcimer tunes on the gold frets (with the exception of diatonic fret 6 which is silver).
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I thought people would be questioning me why I used such a big bolt for the nut. I usually use a size smaller bolt for the nut as compared to the bridge, but with this particular fretboard (mahogany from Home Depot) I found the bigger bolt works better height-wise. So that is what I used. I packed about a half dozen 2-ft lengths of mahogany in my suitcase the last time I was in the States because they make such a nice (albeit thicker) fretboard. I'm usually packing guitar building supplies one way or the other between China and the States as I often can't find or can't get such a great deal on parts in one place or the other. Now that I have access to a proper wood working shop in the States, I've started building parts of the instruments in the States and finish them off in China.
The other question I'm waiting on is why I'm using both a bolt and a nut for the "strings nut" (actually for my instruments it's more of a string tee as I'm using a fret 0 on almost all my builds). A nut on the bolt for the bridge is obvious, but why a bolt and a nut for the strings nut? Well, when you are stringing up a guitar for the first time, the first string will usually pull the nut away from it's proper position, so a nut on the bolt tightened finger tight will keep the bolt in position no matter which way the string wants to pull it. I could remove the nut afterward, but I have extras.
I have started making decent tail pieces using aluminum that I cut from the aluminum yard meter sticks I can buy at B&Q (the local rough equivalent of Home Depot). I also have started using other things for bridges, like specially adapted (cut down) violin bridges and my own wooden bridges topped with a length of fret wire, but I haven't gotten rid of the bolt for the nut yet. I guess I should. Getting rid of the bolts should make my builds look more professional. But some people have told me they like the bolts. So, I don't know. Someday I'll get into the habit of building the nuts as well.
Well, this 4-string Reso Box Banjo is one of my coolest builds to date and I enjoy playing it even though I sometimes am confused by the extra frets (being a long time diatonic stick dulcimer player). In addition to becoming familiar with the chromatic fretboard, I intend to use this instrument to learn frailing (claw-hammer) and some banjo rolls. Later this year I plan to build a proper 5-string Reso Box Banjo. I should also be in the States this summer from mid-June to mid-August. Maybe can have another one of those Sacramento Area CBG Get Togethers.
Hi Rand....Great explanation and photos to show details. I tried the different color frets once, but my mind doesn't work fast enough to actually play the diatonic tunes, so the git sits in the corner now. Does it make a difference if the nut bolt is Metric or SAE?
Comments
Hi Will.
Metric or SAE? Ha! Ha! Both will work.
I thought people would be questioning me why I used such a big bolt for the nut. I usually use a size smaller bolt for the nut as compared to the bridge, but with this particular fretboard (mahogany from Home Depot) I found the bigger bolt works better height-wise. So that is what I used. I packed about a half dozen 2-ft lengths of mahogany in my suitcase the last time I was in the States because they make such a nice (albeit thicker) fretboard. I'm usually packing guitar building supplies one way or the other between China and the States as I often can't find or can't get such a great deal on parts in one place or the other. Now that I have access to a proper wood working shop in the States, I've started building parts of the instruments in the States and finish them off in China.
The other question I'm waiting on is why I'm using both a bolt and a nut for the "strings nut" (actually for my instruments it's more of a string tee as I'm using a fret 0 on almost all my builds). A nut on the bolt for the bridge is obvious, but why a bolt and a nut for the strings nut? Well, when you are stringing up a guitar for the first time, the first string will usually pull the nut away from it's proper position, so a nut on the bolt tightened finger tight will keep the bolt in position no matter which way the string wants to pull it. I could remove the nut afterward, but I have extras.
I have started making decent tail pieces using aluminum that I cut from the aluminum yard meter sticks I can buy at B&Q (the local rough equivalent of Home Depot). I also have started using other things for bridges, like specially adapted (cut down) violin bridges and my own wooden bridges topped with a length of fret wire, but I haven't gotten rid of the bolt for the nut yet. I guess I should. Getting rid of the bolts should make my builds look more professional. But some people have told me they like the bolts. So, I don't know. Someday I'll get into the habit of building the nuts as well.
Well, this 4-string Reso Box Banjo is one of my coolest builds to date and I enjoy playing it even though I sometimes am confused by the extra frets (being a long time diatonic stick dulcimer player). In addition to becoming familiar with the chromatic fretboard, I intend to use this instrument to learn frailing (claw-hammer) and some banjo rolls. Later this year I plan to build a proper 5-string Reso Box Banjo. I should also be in the States this summer from mid-June to mid-August. Maybe can have another one of those Sacramento Area CBG Get Togethers.
Well, I hope life's been treating you well.
-Rand.
Hi Rand....Great explanation and photos to show details. I tried the different color frets once, but my mind doesn't work fast enough to actually play the diatonic tunes, so the git sits in the corner now. Does it make a difference if the nut bolt is Metric or SAE?