Thanks for that ukulele kit builder's instruction guide (.pdf file). I looked thru it and there seems to be a lo of useful information there. I should really build a few of these kit instruments to see how other people build them. I'm sure I'd learn a lot of "trick of the trade" rather than floundering around with my often not so bright ideas. The one thing I now "get" from looking at these instructions is that you don't need to do it all with one big bend. That instead the sides can be broken into several pieces - each of which are more gently bent, and that these cured pieces can then be joined (glued) together using corner blocks tat have carefully formed (curved) mating surfaces; not so different in concept from the 4 rectangular-shaped corner blocks I use to reinforce the corners of my butt-joined wooden sound boxes. I'll be sure to reread this instruction document for some more ideas.
This build will be a short scale (VSL) instrument, 50cm (about 20") which I like because you don't have to stretch your finger so far when playing chords and the like on the diatonic fretboard. You should be able to modify my plans as you like for whatever scale length you prefer. I'm a rather "free form" builder following whatever path my builds take me. This build may split into 2 builds as I now realize that my current teardrop body shape is better suited for a short scale mountain (lap) dulcimer. I'll need to modify my forming rack (jig) to get the right dimension for adding a neck. So rather than re-bending the current side-board, I'll more likely begin again with a fresh length of wood. The other option might be to try 5- or 6- inch diameter hand drum hoop.
Oh, the things you learn when you draw out (and think about) your project plans!
Comments
Hi Habanera Hal,
Thanks for that ukulele kit builder's instruction guide (.pdf file). I looked thru it and there seems to be a lo of useful information there. I should really build a few of these kit instruments to see how other people build them. I'm sure I'd learn a lot of "trick of the trade" rather than floundering around with my often not so bright ideas. The one thing I now "get" from looking at these instructions is that you don't need to do it all with one big bend. That instead the sides can be broken into several pieces - each of which are more gently bent, and that these cured pieces can then be joined (glued) together using corner blocks tat have carefully formed (curved) mating surfaces; not so different in concept from the 4 rectangular-shaped corner blocks I use to reinforce the corners of my butt-joined wooden sound boxes. I'll be sure to reread this instruction document for some more ideas.
-Rand.
Rand, I found this kit and when I saw how the neck is attached to the body, I thought you might find it of interest:
http://www.harpkit.com/mm5/pdf/Instructions/Dakukekit-B.pdf
It might help in bending the sides in closer.
Hi Richard:
This build will be a short scale (VSL) instrument, 50cm (about 20") which I like because you don't have to stretch your finger so far when playing chords and the like on the diatonic fretboard. You should be able to modify my plans as you like for whatever scale length you prefer. I'm a rather "free form" builder following whatever path my builds take me. This build may split into 2 builds as I now realize that my current teardrop body shape is better suited for a short scale mountain (lap) dulcimer. I'll need to modify my forming rack (jig) to get the right dimension for adding a neck. So rather than re-bending the current side-board, I'll more likely begin again with a fresh length of wood. The other option might be to try 5- or 6- inch diameter hand drum hoop.
Oh, the things you learn when you draw out (and think about) your project plans!
-Rand.
Extremely interesting ,,, have been thinking on trying to build a "strumstick"
U may have just pushed me over the top