Profiled cut polished with 240/600/1000/1500/2000 grit wet and dry paper and finished off on the lightest buffing mop I have with blue compound.
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I used it wet when I did my slide, and also used a bit of metal polish as a final stage after a careful (watch the heat build up....it can crack the glass!) buff on my lightest mop with my drill.
While I'm talking about my approach with abrasives (others have theirs) I might as well add this too....On wood I use it dry, after sanding with coarse/medium/fine/extra fine sandpaper, By then, the wet and dry is really just smoothing and polishing and only needs minimal work with each grit....more of a wipe over really, but it's worth it. The walnut fret board I just finished today is actually shiny when the light catches it, just what I wanted for a fret-less, and a dab of lemon oil is all it will need to finish. After giving it a good wipe over with some paper towel to get rid of any fine grit in the grain I spray on a thin coat of sanding sealer on the rest of the neck stick, once dry it only needs another wipe over with some 1500/2000, then a not too thick coat of satin lacquer. Once that's dry everything is so smooth I just give it a light buff with some fine cut polishing compound and finish with a dab of guitar polish and it's done. I prefer the sanding sealer to a grain filler on sapele, as it gives a lovely, tactile semi-open grained finish after lacquering. It sounds laborious but it honestly doesn't take long at all once all the primary sanding is done.
As you'll see in the links earlier in this post, you can even get 7000 grit paper.....!! I stop at 2000 because that is 'behavioural' enough as it is.....7000 is ridiculous.....no, it is, really.......aaaarrrgghhh!!!!!!
Too much info again Dave, probably, but if it helps you and other members then great.....!! That's what it's all about. :-) Hope it helps.
Thanks Don, as always, for your kind and encouraging comment. It took me a while to get it like that....! It only increases the respect I have for guys like 'Bones' who can turn 'em out by the dozen in no time at all....boy, there are some skilled craftspeople around these parts doing amazing things, and so generous in sharing their knowledge and encouraging newcomers like myself, as you do too Don. Thanks again bud.
Comments
Thanks for the like AGP#, really appreciate it! :-)
Thanks for the likes Denbo, really appreciate it!
Here you go Dave.....I use these packs from amazon uk (top of page listing); https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&am... You get two large sheets in each grit, and it's super quality.....a little goes a long way.
I'm sure you could find something similar on your side of the pond, although the nearest packs I could find on amazon america are these; https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&...
I used it wet when I did my slide, and also used a bit of metal polish as a final stage after a careful (watch the heat build up....it can crack the glass!) buff on my lightest mop with my drill.
While I'm talking about my approach with abrasives (others have theirs) I might as well add this too....On wood I use it dry, after sanding with coarse/medium/fine/extra fine sandpaper, By then, the wet and dry is really just smoothing and polishing and only needs minimal work with each grit....more of a wipe over really, but it's worth it. The walnut fret board I just finished today is actually shiny when the light catches it, just what I wanted for a fret-less, and a dab of lemon oil is all it will need to finish. After giving it a good wipe over with some paper towel to get rid of any fine grit in the grain I spray on a thin coat of sanding sealer on the rest of the neck stick, once dry it only needs another wipe over with some 1500/2000, then a not too thick coat of satin lacquer. Once that's dry everything is so smooth I just give it a light buff with some fine cut polishing compound and finish with a dab of guitar polish and it's done. I prefer the sanding sealer to a grain filler on sapele, as it gives a lovely, tactile semi-open grained finish after lacquering. It sounds laborious but it honestly doesn't take long at all once all the primary sanding is done.
As you'll see in the links earlier in this post, you can even get 7000 grit paper.....!! I stop at 2000 because that is 'behavioural' enough as it is.....7000 is ridiculous.....no, it is, really.......aaaarrrgghhh!!!!!!
Too much info again Dave, probably, but if it helps you and other members then great.....!! That's what it's all about. :-) Hope it helps.
Eddie Van Typewriter......(ha!)
Wow, that answers my question completely! Perfect work! Where do you find such fine papers?
Thanks Bob, appreciate it!
Looks great!... impressively smooth.
Thanks Don, as always, for your kind and encouraging comment. It took me a while to get it like that....! It only increases the respect I have for guys like 'Bones' who can turn 'em out by the dozen in no time at all....boy, there are some skilled craftspeople around these parts doing amazing things, and so generous in sharing their knowledge and encouraging newcomers like myself, as you do too Don. Thanks again bud.
Nice polishing!