Really just a board with the router attached, some blocks to allow it to be clamped in a small Workmate and a fence. The cutter I have has a larger radius than I want to end up with. I don't take it all the way in and then finish off by hand, so its only a roughing out device, but it still saves a lot of time. The centre line of the router spindle is marked on the table as is the direction in which the neck needs to go. The reason for having the cutter right at the end is that it can then do necks with scarfed head.One bonus is that the only thing I bought was the router bit. Both the router and the piece of 1" ply were given to me. The rest of the wood was just offcuts and you don't need much.
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What size bit of the three are you using to round over the necks. Thank you for your time!
"BTW, I recently got and started using a "thumbnail" bit, usually used for edging table tops. It makes a nicer "D" shaped neck with a perfectly centered break on the back than a quarter-round bit. You can get them here:http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pag...
Yes. I imagine that any of the cutters which cut across a large surface would need the bigger spindle. No substitute for stability when dealing with machines like this.
Thanks for the acknowledgement, John, though not at all necessary as I'm happy to pass on any info I find. One thing I neglected to mention with that bit is that it requires a 1/2" collet, so anyone considering it should keep that in mind. Personally I would only use that large a bit with a stable, table-mounted router for safety.
Thanks very much for the comments. I should point out that it was Hal who posted the link, so thanks again to him. I'm sure there are people who use routers so much by hand that they can manage quiet well without a table, but for people like me who are new to using routers, this does seem to work so much better.
Nice job. Very economical and no none-sense. I especially like the center rail idea. I just finished my first DIY router table a couple of days ago and am enjoying all the benefits. It really is easier to bring your work to the tool instead of the other way around.
Comments
The #8558 is the cheapest bit out of the three listed and it came with free shipping! Very good link!
Thank you again HH!
Thank you Hal! Much appreciated!
Don -
I'm using the #8558.
Hal,
What size bit of the three are you using to round over the necks. Thank you for your time!
"BTW, I recently got and started using a "thumbnail" bit, usually used for edging table tops. It makes a nicer "D" shaped neck with a perfectly centered break on the back than a quarter-round bit. You can get them here:http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pag...
Hi Hal.
Yes. I imagine that any of the cutters which cut across a large surface would need the bigger spindle. No substitute for stability when dealing with machines like this.
All the best.
John
Thanks for the acknowledgement, John, though not at all necessary as I'm happy to pass on any info I find. One thing I neglected to mention with that bit is that it requires a 1/2" collet, so anyone considering it should keep that in mind. Personally I would only use that large a bit with a stable, table-mounted router for safety.
Hi Steve.
Many thanks. I appreciate it.
All the best.
John
great table John looks the biz! (-:
Hi Don, Dave and Dave.
Thanks very much for the comments. I should point out that it was Hal who posted the link, so thanks again to him. I'm sure there are people who use routers so much by hand that they can manage quiet well without a table, but for people like me who are new to using routers, this does seem to work so much better.
All the best.
John
John,
Nice job. Very economical and no none-sense. I especially like the center rail idea. I just finished my first DIY router table a couple of days ago and am enjoying all the benefits. It really is easier to bring your work to the tool instead of the other way around.
Have fun makin' chips. ;-)
Dave.
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