Well you can cut the neck but bolt and glue a piece on to the bottom of the neck from the heal (let the piece you join on the neck be the heal. Let that piece go all the way through the box so that when you cut your hole for the cone that piece will be so 3/4" (or whatever you need) down below the box top. That piece will be below the cone but actually you need to work it out so the cone will rest on that piece. The at the back of the box you put another block to that piece the same thickness to bring it back to the top and allow that entire block to come out of the back of the box as a tailpiece and then drill holes in that and use bridge pins to pin the strings off. The neck will be cut off but if the other piece is glued and screw properely then basically it's like a straight through neck. Make sure the cone rest on that piece of wood even if its screwed to the top of the box because without a brace to hold the cone from underneath you won;t have any sustain. The cone will flex so the strings will loose vibration and stall out with no sustain. The sound pretty cool and clangy like that but just no sustain at all. If this don't make total sense to you then give me your regular email address and I will draw a quick illustration and send it to you so you'll see what I'm talking about
That's generally how I do mine (neck through). Which brings me to the issue I have with the rezo I'm building now (this is the first one I've ever built). That would be trying to fix the neck to the body and finding some kind of tailpiece that'll work since the hole for the cone (6" dia.) leaves no room but for 1/4" tops at the bottom. I'm using a 6 string electric strat style neck. I think the box is a little over a foot long and roughly 6" deep leaving just enough room to mount the pickup and the neck. It's basically a craft box you get at craft and hobby stores. I'll gladly take any suggestions you might have, haha. I can send pics if ya want.
The other ones you saw was more than likely some of my builds as I do double cone and 4 cones with this same saddle. It is solid steel, worked down and scupted by hand, you may notice is is compensated for better intonation than a straight piece would offer. The saddle has no effect on sound, I build stainless steel, copper and aluminum cone guitars with the same saddle. They all have their own distinct sound however the box material does make a difference as does the neck wood. Traditional cones sound fine and are loud acoustically but you have to cut the neck and I don't cut my necks as I build and sell guitars for a living and one of my selling points is the straight through neck design.
Howdy! Really cool guitar! I have a question and it goes a little something like: What is that bridge and how does it affect the sound? I am currently working on a more traditional rezo, but I have seen some other builds like this in the past and thought about using some of the design features. What say you?
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I appreciate the kind words Mort.
Well you can cut the neck but bolt and glue a piece on to the bottom of the neck from the heal (let the piece you join on the neck be the heal. Let that piece go all the way through the box so that when you cut your hole for the cone that piece will be so 3/4" (or whatever you need) down below the box top. That piece will be below the cone but actually you need to work it out so the cone will rest on that piece. The at the back of the box you put another block to that piece the same thickness to bring it back to the top and allow that entire block to come out of the back of the box as a tailpiece and then drill holes in that and use bridge pins to pin the strings off. The neck will be cut off but if the other piece is glued and screw properely then basically it's like a straight through neck. Make sure the cone rest on that piece of wood even if its screwed to the top of the box because without a brace to hold the cone from underneath you won;t have any sustain. The cone will flex so the strings will loose vibration and stall out with no sustain. The sound pretty cool and clangy like that but just no sustain at all. If this don't make total sense to you then give me your regular email address and I will draw a quick illustration and send it to you so you'll see what I'm talking about
That's generally how I do mine (neck through). Which brings me to the issue I have with the rezo I'm building now (this is the first one I've ever built). That would be trying to fix the neck to the body and finding some kind of tailpiece that'll work since the hole for the cone (6" dia.) leaves no room but for 1/4" tops at the bottom. I'm using a 6 string electric strat style neck. I think the box is a little over a foot long and roughly 6" deep leaving just enough room to mount the pickup and the neck. It's basically a craft box you get at craft and hobby stores. I'll gladly take any suggestions you might have, haha. I can send pics if ya want.
The other ones you saw was more than likely some of my builds as I do double cone and 4 cones with this same saddle. It is solid steel, worked down and scupted by hand, you may notice is is compensated for better intonation than a straight piece would offer. The saddle has no effect on sound, I build stainless steel, copper and aluminum cone guitars with the same saddle. They all have their own distinct sound however the box material does make a difference as does the neck wood. Traditional cones sound fine and are loud acoustically but you have to cut the neck and I don't cut my necks as I build and sell guitars for a living and one of my selling points is the straight through neck design.
Howdy! Really cool guitar! I have a question and it goes a little something like: What is that bridge and how does it affect the sound? I am currently working on a more traditional rezo, but I have seen some other builds like this in the past and thought about using some of the design features. What say you?