I'm reconsidering my use of the hardtail bridge on this. The through-neck is kinda pointless if I use the hardtail.
I have a few questions at this point.
1) I (apparently) need to cut off the fingerboard where the 21st fret would go (to allow the lid to open). I see designs where the fingerboard goes over the lid (which I really like the look of) but I don't get how you get to the internals if you do that (unless the design opens from the back side instead).
2) I over-cut the notch in the box for the neck (forgot to allow for the lid inset into the neck - noob mistake) so I need to cover it with secondary thickness pieces for where the tailstock and neck meet the box. Not a deal-breaker, but a little embarrassing. :\
3) I'm thinking of putting a brass threaded insert into the cedar reinforcing (on the top and bottom of the box interior) and connecting the neck by a machine screw at each of those points. Bad idea? Reasoning: I'd like to leave this assembly free from glue as much as possible, at least right now - so I can disassemble and reuse parts again, in case I don't like how it turns out. (Hedging my bets).
4) My neck has had its first staining sanded off. I didn't like how "Light Oak" made my maple neck look like Yellow Pine. I do want some contrast between the neck and the fingerboard, but I'm unsure what color to try to make it at this point. Option 1: Stain it "maple" ; Option 2: try to approximate the box color (not a lot of contrast with the fingerboard, but I guess that is OK; Option 3: Go the other direction and stain the maple with EBONY stain (say wutt?) Comments/suggestions welcome.
Comments
Looking good Darren. Why not remove the hinges on the lid and just press it down to close the lid? Also, keep the maple as is :)
First build (3 string) in progress.
I'm reconsidering my use of the hardtail bridge on this. The through-neck is kinda pointless if I use the hardtail.
I have a few questions at this point.
1) I (apparently) need to cut off the fingerboard where the 21st fret would go (to allow the lid to open). I see designs where the fingerboard goes over the lid (which I really like the look of) but I don't get how you get to the internals if you do that (unless the design opens from the back side instead).
2) I over-cut the notch in the box for the neck (forgot to allow for the lid inset into the neck - noob mistake) so I need to cover it with secondary thickness pieces for where the tailstock and neck meet the box. Not a deal-breaker, but a little embarrassing. :\
3) I'm thinking of putting a brass threaded insert into the cedar reinforcing (on the top and bottom of the box interior) and connecting the neck by a machine screw at each of those points. Bad idea? Reasoning: I'd like to leave this assembly free from glue as much as possible, at least right now - so I can disassemble and reuse parts again, in case I don't like how it turns out. (Hedging my bets).
4) My neck has had its first staining sanded off. I didn't like how "Light Oak" made my maple neck look like Yellow Pine. I do want some contrast between the neck and the fingerboard, but I'm unsure what color to try to make it at this point. Option 1: Stain it "maple" ; Option 2: try to approximate the box color (not a lot of contrast with the fingerboard, but I guess that is OK; Option 3: Go the other direction and stain the maple with EBONY stain (say wutt?) Comments/suggestions welcome.