Posted by Mal Chilvers on February 6, 2011 at 2:48pm
Withing the next few day I shall hopfully start on a fretless three stringed resonator cbg and would like to now how long a piece of wood do I need for the neck, measuring from the front of thr box where I shall bolt it to the very end after the tuning pegs.Mal
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That 27" length is the total neck, including headstock and the heel where it fits into the body. I've only got a couple of rosewood blanks in stock at the moment and I'm hanging onto them for my own use, sorry.
I use a router to cut the top, and the soundwell is routed out from a piece of 12mm ply with a 6mm 'shelf' to carry the cone. I made a simple circle-cutting attachment for the router, as the standard one supplied with the router just doesn't go down to such small sizes.
The top is simply screwed down, and its' also fixed thru' the soundhole shelf into the thru' block. I could all be just glued together, but after making quite a few of these, I find it's handy to have the top loose for wiring-up, but in all honesty it wouldn't be that tricky to wire-it with the top glued on.
You should be able to see the general arrangement a bit better here...centre block, neck with the heel, end of the neck kept below to the line of the top to allow me to tilt and shim the neck to adjust the neck angle if necessary.
There are many different ways of making these..this is just the way I do it, and it will doubtless change as I make more of them.
John What do you use the cut the large hole for the sound well and is the lid going to be screwed on as I see you have drilled small holes in the four corners and the side middle.Mal
ChickenboneJohn said:
I've just checked, that guitar neck in the pic. is about 27" total length, including about 4" housed into the body. Scale length is the distance from nut to bridge. Personally, for ease of construction on a reso I wouldn't do a thru' neck (at least not for a 1st time build), as it doesn't just have to be cut to clear the top of the box, it also has to accommodate the depth of the soundwell - it's far easier screwing the neck onto a centre block.
I've just checked, that guitar neck in the pic. is about 27" total length, including about 4" housed into the body. Scale length is the distance from nut to bridge. Personally, for ease of construction on a reso I wouldn't do a thru' neck (at least not for a 1st time build), as it doesn't just have to be cut to clear the top of the box, it also has to accommodate the depth of the soundwell - it's far easier screwing the neck onto a centre block.
The neck is screwed onto the thru' block similar to a regular electric guitar, I cut the neck and the thu' block all out of the same blank that I'd laminated (looks like it's ll one continuous piece but it isn't., it's lapped where those mahogany 'buttresses' align the neck to the centreblock). It allows me to shim the neck to adjust the angle, as setting up a resonator guitar can be a bit finnicky, and I like to have as much in-built adjustability as possible.
That's brilliant, is the neck all one piece right throuh th box or is it laminated
ChickenboneJohn said:
Here's one I did earlier..actually just putting it together now. Set-in screwed-on neck (the end is stepped for clearance for a lovely JuJu pickup), with a thru' block down the back of the box. The top has the soundwell glued to it and that will have a couple of posts to support it off the thru' block once its' dropped in. This one's got a standard uke cone and coverplate - you do need to work out the action / neck height / neck angle on these, or at least have foolproof method of adjusting it...think carefully before building it
Here's one I did earlier..actually just putting it together now. Set-in screwed-on neck (the end is stepped for clearance for a lovely JuJu pickup), with a thru' block down the back of the box. The top has the soundwell glued to it and that will have a couple of posts to support it off the thru' block once its' dropped in. This one's got a standard uke cone and coverplate - you do need to work out the action / neck height / neck angle on these, or at least have foolproof method of adjusting it...think carefully before building it
I don't even know what a scale lenth is.What should the measurement be from the bridge to the nut, that would be a great start.I have one or two thengths from my dog puzzle making, on in paticular is 32" wich I thought might do the job but I'm not at all sure now.Mal
Well...there's a lot of variables there...size of your box, scale length, how you are doing the headstock, are you setting the neck into the box, forming a heel, thru' neck or what? etc. You need to make a few decisions...assuming you've got a box and a cone, figure out where you are going to drop the cone into the box, what scale length you will use..that will determine where the nut is..so you can figure out the neck length, add a bit for setting it into the box and some for the headstock. Sometimes I do a quick sketch, but more often I get my box and a stick of wood, offer them up together, decide where the bridge is going and just mark where I'm going to cut the neck at the heel, work out where the nut is, mark the headstock and that's the job done. If you are doing a scarfed headstock remember to make an allowance for doing the cut and flip on the scarf joint.
It's a lot easier when you've got all the parts in front of you
Replies
Hi John
does the 27"include the area where the machine heads are mate.Mal
I use a router to cut the top, and the soundwell is routed out from a piece of 12mm ply with a 6mm 'shelf' to carry the cone. I made a simple circle-cutting attachment for the router, as the standard one supplied with the router just doesn't go down to such small sizes.
The top is simply screwed down, and its' also fixed thru' the soundhole shelf into the thru' block. I could all be just glued together, but after making quite a few of these, I find it's handy to have the top loose for wiring-up, but in all honesty it wouldn't be that tricky to wire-it with the top glued on.
There are many different ways of making these..this is just the way I do it, and it will doubtless change as I make more of them.
ChickenboneJohn said:
The neck is screwed onto the thru' block similar to a regular electric guitar, I cut the neck and the thu' block all out of the same blank that I'd laminated (looks like it's ll one continuous piece but it isn't., it's lapped where those mahogany 'buttresses' align the neck to the centreblock). It allows me to shim the neck to adjust the angle, as setting up a resonator guitar can be a bit finnicky, and I like to have as much in-built adjustability as possible.
ChickenboneJohn said:
Hi John
I don't even know what a scale lenth is.What should the measurement be from the bridge to the nut, that would be a great start.I have one or two thengths from my dog puzzle making, on in paticular is 32" wich I thought might do the job but I'm not at all sure now.Mal
http://www.folksy.com/shops/puzzlesinwood
ChickenboneJohn said:
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