I actually consider this build #1A as I had a pretty bad attempt on the first one. I dove in without planning it out and without doing as much research as I should have. Considering I've NEVER worked with wood before, I'm very pleased with it and it sounds pretty darn good! I used dual piezos by default (thats all I had on hand) and red oak for the neck. Though I was nervous, I fretted this one and that part came out ok too, though there's definite room for improvement. No volume or tone controls.
As for strings, I'm tuning to G-D-G, but broke the A-string trying to tune it. Anyone ever have problems with this? On the last build, even though the string didn't break, I felt like it was on the verge of popping any second. Does anyone do something different or have any tips?
By the way, I would just like to say thanks to the people on this site. I have gotten so information and the people here have been so helpful. It truly is a "community". Now, off to start on #3! Dang this addiction!!!
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Thanks, Rand, for all that information. It's very helpful and I will definitely keep it for future use. I guess I did ok on the frets because the notes were pretty close when using the 12th fret test. They were a tad bit sharp at about the same amount on each string so I adjusted accordingly. For some reason, the tuner (Korg) would not pick up the A string when I tuned it down to G when playing it open. So what I did was play the string at the 12th fret and it picked up the G that way. I assume it's correct based on the other strings and on some online tunings I listened to.
I'm going to a CBG festival Saturday not too far from home. I'm going to take this build and hopefully get some tips and feedback from it. If they're as helpful as the folks on this site, I should come away from it golden. Plus, my new knuckle slide came in today and there's a workshop on how to play this thing. Can't wait to start my next build and hopefully be able to play them by the time I have too many and the wife makes me sell some of them off. Thanks again!
I snapped my little string on my first one. Now after making a bunch I get them almost to correct pitch just by feel ( not on purpose it just works out that way) On the last few when I put the electric tuner on they were all at the right note just a bit flat. Not bragging here just saying after a while you get a feel for the tension and wont snap strings.
Rand, sometimes I do the opposite of you, tune it tight then back off to Dad when the strings have streched some. It all works in the end. Maybe its because we are opposite ends of the earth, lol.
Hi David.
That looks like a nice build. Looks like you are off to a good start. I felt intimidated for a long time to attempt fretting with real fret wire. So, my early builds all used electrician's tie-wraps. Then I did several builds with 2-part epoxy & cut nails, and finally got around to real fret wire. Turns out, using real fret wire is pretty easy after all. Maybe all my previous build prepared me for it, but I glad to hear you soldiered through and can do fretting at such an early stage. Good work!
As far as tuning goes, I generally tune a new build to DAD' before upping it to GDG' because it puts less strain on the strings. I also sometimes get mixed up and end up trying to tune one string or another either one octave too high, or too low. I generally use strings 1, 2 & 3 or strings 2, 3 & 4 from a set of six acoustic guitar strings. As I string it up, I start with string 3, then 2, and then 1.
After I get the 3 strings on, I tighten up string 3 until all the "slop" is out of the string and it just starts to get tight. Using my clip-on digital tuner, I then see what note string 3 is tuned to. If it is a few notes (or less) below D, I'll tune it up to D. If it is above D, I'll either tune it down to D (if the slop is not too objectionable) or I will continue to tune it up to G and try tuning it directly to GDG'. Then for the string 2, I tighten the string just far enough to take the slop out, and then see what its tuned to. If it is a few note shy of A, I'll tune up to A. That is, unless I have decided to try GDG', in which case, I'll try to tune it up to D. Then for the first string, I repeat this process aiming for D' (or G' if going for GDG'). I have to check the resulting D (or G) against the third string to make sure it sounds an octave higher. Once I have tuned all 3 string, I go back and check the tuning again, because when you tune strings 2 and 1, it will usually pull string 3 out of tune. So, retune string 3, then string 2 and then string 1. By now you should be real close, but I usually check one more time.
If your instrument is chromatically fretted (like a real full-sized guitar) with 12 notes per octave (including sharps/flats), then you can use the following procedure to verify your strings are tuned to the right octave. First stop (press down on) string 3 at fret #7 and then pluck the string. Next pluck string 2, open (w/o stopping any frets), and you should here pretty much the same note. They may sound a bit different due to the difference in string diameters and whether or not the string is wound, but the note should be close. If you are unsure, stop string 3 at fret 6 and pluck the string comparing it to string 2, open. That note should sound definitely lower. Then stop string 3 at fret 8 and pluck string 2, open. That should sound a bit higher. So, repeat plucking string 3 stopped at fret 7 and pluck string 2 again. Don't they sound pretty close? If not, then likely one or the other strings is tuned an octave out. If you don't have another reference (such as a piano), you won't really know which string is out of tune by an octave, but it is likely the one that you had to wind and wind to bring in to tune.
Once you are satisfied string 2 is tuned, test string 1(open) against string 2 (stopped at fret 5). They should sound about the same. Again, if unsure that they sound the same, you can test string 1 (open) against string 2 stopped at fret 4, and then again string 2 stopped at fret 6. Next, test string 1 (open) against string 3 (open). They should sound an octave apart.
Now, if you have a diatonically fretted instrument (all the natural notes minus most of the accidentals (sharps/flats)), then to compare the tuning of the strings, check string 2 (open) against string 3 stopped at fret 4. Then check string 1 against string 2 stopped at fret 3.
If you are new to tuning, it might help to find someone who already knows how and have them show you.Also, there is another set of tests you should do when you have just completed building your new guitar. This is to check the bridge position for proper intonation. The result of this will be to precisely position the "floating" bridge of your CBG so each string will have the best intonation (which actually is a compromise). First measure the distance from your nut (or fret 0) to your bridge and verify that it is the same as your scale length. Next, using your digital tuner, pluck string 1 open and make sure it is tuned as accurately as possible. Then stop string 1 at fret 12 [or fret 8 (or fret 7 iff you call fret 6.6 "6.5" instead of "7") if diatonic] and see if the note played is the same, just one octave higher. You may find that it is a bit off, so by repeated trial and error, move the bridge back (or forth) until you can tune both notes spot on to the intended note (just with an octave separation). Once you have fiound that spot, mark on your sound board in pencil where that side of the bridge should be. Now, maintaining that side of the bridge in its current position, repeat this process for string 2, and once that is complete, repeat it for string 3. The result is usually that you have moved the whole bridge a tad back (toward the tail piece) from your originally planned scale length, and that the bass side (string 3) of the bridge is further back (toward the tail piece) than the treble side (string 1). I hope you can follow what I'm saying.
Again, it might be easier to have some experience person show you how its done.
Maybe somebody who is experienced with making videos could volunteer and make some videos showing us how to do these things. (I'm in China where Youtube and other videos are blocked, so I don't know. Maybe someone has already done this. You can search on CBN for videos using its build in search engine. Try keywords like tuning, bridge and intonation).
Well have a good time learning to play your new guitar. And good luck with build 3.
-Rand.
I used medium fret wire from CB Gitty. I used a fret scale ruler from Stew-Mac to draw the lines and a Japanese Flush Cut saw from Harbor Freight to saw the slots. I still have a long way to go to get good at that and get even depth all the way across. I laid the fret in the slot, covered with a scrap piece of wood block and tapped it in with a small hammer. The hardest part for me was filing the ends down and getting them flush and smooth with the neck.
Thanks for the compliment. The hardest thing I'm having trouble with, it seems, is with applying the finishing touches. I think I get too excited and rush through to the end.
What material did you use for your frets and how did you go about applying them?
Looks great...then again so did my last one, until I strung it up :P
Mikey
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