Replies

  • yes, zero fret to bridge, then use this:

    http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/standard.php

    print out a multi-page pdf on page 2 after you enter your info, and use that on your fingerboard.

    Jason Nelms said:
    I am guessing that you measure from zero fret to bridge for the scale length?

  • I am guessing that you measure from zero fret to bridge for the scale length?
    Jason Nelms said:
    That is awesome. Btw - How thick is that fretboard?


    Diane in Chicago said:
    I do use them, pretty much all the time. They are waaaaay easier to get low action. I use narrow/low fretwire for the frets, and a jumbo/pyramid size fret for the zero. I use a tiny triangle file to file in little slots to keep the strings in place. Done and done.


    Jason Nelms said:
    I know that Dianne of Chicago is fond of using them. What is the difference - buildwise?
  • 1/4"

    Jason Nelms said:
    That is awesome. Btw - How thick is that fretboard?
  • That is awesome. Btw - How thick is that fretboard?
    Diane in Chicago said:
    I do use them, pretty much all the time. They are waaaaay easier to get low action. I use narrow/low fretwire for the frets, and a jumbo/pyramid size fret for the zero. I use a tiny triangle file to file in little slots to keep the strings in place. Done and done.


    Jason Nelms said:
    I know that Dianne of Chicago is fond of using them. What is the difference - buildwise?
  • I do use them, pretty much all the time. They are waaaaay easier to get low action. I use narrow/low fretwire for the frets, and a jumbo/pyramid size fret for the zero. I use a tiny triangle file to file in little slots to keep the strings in place. Done and done. Sorry, this shot is not very sharp.

    Jason Nelms said:
    I know that Dianne of Chicago is fond of using them. What is the difference - buildwise?
  • I have a mountain dulcimer with a zero fret and a nut. the nut just keeps the strings apart correctly.

    -WY
  • The zero fret is such a good idea I can't figure out why more guitar makers don't use it. (As Wichita Sam points out Gretsch use it). The only situation where a zero fret isn't appropriate is if you want a high action at the "nut" end of the neck - for example for slide playing. Otherwise, the zero fret is the best way to get the nut-end action as low as possible without going too low and into buzzing string territory.
  • Zero Fret is where a (jumbo) fret is used to establish the height of the strings at the nut location... There is still a "nut" to establish spacing, but the slots are cut below the height of the zero fret.... These is often use in low end instruments because it is technically easy to achieve a consistant result. I've used them a lot. None other than "Gretsch", a very high end guitar maker will often emply them.

    If you are anxious about your skill in nut cutting, but want a very nice fast action guit, zero fret is the way to go....

    the best,

    Wichita Sam
  • I know that Dianne of Chicago is fond of using them. What is the difference - buildwise?
  • To my understanding, as far as function the zero fret and the nut are no different. I use to own a Kay guitar long time ago, that had a zero fret. If you have ever seen those stick guitars, the ones with no head stock some of them use a zero fret in stead of a nut. I read somewhere that a nut made of bone, or other like material is preferred because it offers a more natural sounding "open string" string sound and better sustain.

    You might be on to something here, I bet that a zero fret would work just as well on a CBG
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