Is it normal for the strings to sit so high from the body/fret board? I have built 2 (pics are on my profile) and have the same problem with both. Maybe I need to use something different for the nut/bridge??
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Rand- that makes pefect sense, thanks! I think on my 2nd build I may have fixed the "break angle" with te neck design. Also- since I can't really file the box down I'm going to play with different size bolts. Thanks again, much appreciated!
Rand Moore said:
Hi Donny Bell.
If you lower your action by lowering the nut, and that introduces buzzing, your build probably doesn't have sufficient break angle over the nut. There are several quick fixes for this, including using small eye bolts (the smallest you can get works best), or small pan-headed wood screws, or electricians tie-wraps, or a small piece of wood/plastic/metal with two holes drilled in either end and that you can screw into the headstock over the strings. The idea of all these quick fixes is to push the string down on the headstock side of the nut so that the string will become tight as they pass over the nut.
I usually use a cut bolt as my nut, often in conjunction with a fret 0. I always take a small round file and file down a groove so that the top edge of the shaft of the bolt is at the same height or less than fret 0. The threads of the bolt should be slightly higher than the fret 0 so they can help hold the strings in place.
Also, by using a bolt for both the nut and the bridge, you can set the distance between the strings about any way you want. Some people like them closer together and others like them further apart. If you have a 4 stringer, you can string the first two strings using the same type of string, place them about 1/8" apart and have a paired melody string just like on many mountain or stick dulcimers.
If you lower your action by lowering the nut, and that introduces buzzing, your build probably doesn't have sufficient break angle over the nut. There are several quick fixes for this, including using small eye bolts (the smallest you can get works best), or small pan-headed wood screws, or electricians tie-wraps, or a small piece of wood/plastic/metal with two holes drilled in either end and that you can screw into the headstock over the strings. The idea of all these quick fixes is to push the string down on the headstock side of the nut so that the string will become tight as they pass over the nut.
I usually use a cut bolt as my nut, often in conjunction with a fret 0. I always take a small round file and file down a groove so that the top edge of the shaft of the bolt is at the same height or less than fret 0. The threads of the bolt should be slightly higher than the fret 0 so they can help hold the strings in place.
Also, by using a bolt for both the nut and the bridge, you can set the distance between the strings about any way you want. Some people like them closer together and others like them further apart. If you have a 4 stringer, you can string the first two strings using the same type of string, place them about 1/8" apart and have a paired melody string just like on many mountain or stick dulcimers.
i heard on electrics strings should be min. 3/16 off poles is string height ok on neck? i set neck with strait edge on frets raise or lower till you get 1/4 to 3/8 off deck for top of bridge your nut will dictate strings off neck dont use strings to set neck nut and bridge will be where you tune it in i gave you standard with exotic or raised pickups is another book
Thanks Mungo- I did try to lower the strings on my first build but I ran into the buzzing issue. I even tried to tighten the strings a little thinking it would take care of the buzzing but all I did was break one of the strings. I guess if I lower one side I need to lower the other? The buzzing was at the nut-
The bolts I used for the nut/ bridge were from CB Gitty- 5/16"x1 12". (its actually black threaded rod).
Should I use something different
Thanks,
Donny
Mungo Park said:
They will sit as high as you build it, the basic rule I use is the strings sit just high enough to slip a dime under the strigs at the first fret. Some might think this is on the low side but gives you a idea. You seem to be using some sort of cut off bolt, so cut a little half round slot for it to sit in and it will be lower. Make sure the string will still clear the second fret when fretting the first fret. However slide players like their strings a little higher. The lower the strings the less the string has to bend to be fretted and the less the pitch will change when the string is fretted. This will help with the intonation.
So sit them as low as your building skills will allow, the more accurate your fretboard and frets are the lowe the strings can be without various buzzing problems and other hard to diagnose problems. Hope this helps. Cheers Ron.
They will sit as high as you build it, the basic rule I use is the strings sit just high enough to slip a dime under the strigs at the first fret. Some might think this is on the low side but gives you a idea. You seem to be using some sort of cut off bolt, so cut a little half round slot for it to sit in and it will be lower. Make sure the string will still clear the second fret when fretting the first fret. However slide players like their strings a little higher. The lower the strings the less the string has to bend to be fretted and the less the pitch will change when the string is fretted. This will help with the intonation.
So sit them as low as your building skills will allow, the more accurate your fretboard and frets are the lowe the strings can be without various buzzing problems and other hard to diagnose problems. Hope this helps. Cheers Ron.
Replies
Rand Moore said:
Hi Donny Bell.
If you lower your action by lowering the nut, and that introduces buzzing, your build probably doesn't have sufficient break angle over the nut. There are several quick fixes for this, including using small eye bolts (the smallest you can get works best), or small pan-headed wood screws, or electricians tie-wraps, or a small piece of wood/plastic/metal with two holes drilled in either end and that you can screw into the headstock over the strings. The idea of all these quick fixes is to push the string down on the headstock side of the nut so that the string will become tight as they pass over the nut.
I usually use a cut bolt as my nut, often in conjunction with a fret 0. I always take a small round file and file down a groove so that the top edge of the shaft of the bolt is at the same height or less than fret 0. The threads of the bolt should be slightly higher than the fret 0 so they can help hold the strings in place.
Also, by using a bolt for both the nut and the bridge, you can set the distance between the strings about any way you want. Some people like them closer together and others like them further apart. If you have a 4 stringer, you can string the first two strings using the same type of string, place them about 1/8" apart and have a paired melody string just like on many mountain or stick dulcimers.
-Rand.
Thanks Mungo- I did try to lower the strings on my first build but I ran into the buzzing issue. I even tried to tighten the strings a little thinking it would take care of the buzzing but all I did was break one of the strings. I guess if I lower one side I need to lower the other? The buzzing was at the nut-
The bolts I used for the nut/ bridge were from CB Gitty- 5/16"x1 12". (its actually black threaded rod).
Should I use something different
Thanks,
Donny
Mungo Park said:
They will sit as high as you build it, the basic rule I use is the strings sit just high enough to slip a dime under the strigs at the first fret. Some might think this is on the low side but gives you a idea. You seem to be using some sort of cut off bolt, so cut a little half round slot for it to sit in and it will be lower. Make sure the string will still clear the second fret when fretting the first fret. However slide players like their strings a little higher. The lower the strings the less the string has to bend to be fretted and the less the pitch will change when the string is fretted. This will help with the intonation.
So sit them as low as your building skills will allow, the more accurate your fretboard and frets are the lowe the strings can be without various buzzing problems and other hard to diagnose problems. Hope this helps. Cheers Ron.