Ok, that's oddly put, but not sure how else t word it.

 

Here's the thing, I want an angled headstock, but also want laminated sides on the neck, as they will actually form  the sides of the body too. (think like a fork with the middle tong cut off).

 

So, I need a thick neckstock to begin with.

 

The Easiest way for me, as decent finished wood in over an inch is not common round here, is the take say a 1x2 board, turn it so the thickness side is the actual face. This will leave me lots of wood to angle my headstock without making a skiff joint,  and,  I can glue my 1/8" thick x 1.5 inch wide strips onto the sides to give me my  Inch wide neck I want, and the rest form the sides for my body.

 

QUESTION, a Neck made from a 1x2 board turned on it's side -- will that hold up strengthwise? is it more prone to warping -- or would it actually add strength ?

 

Can't get my head around it.

 

Thanks

jb

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I think I see what your are getting at, but it's an awful lot of waste wood.  1" core plus 2 x 1/8" strips is a pretty narrow neck, and that 1 1/2" deep side strip is barely enough to get a proper angled headstock out of that depth. I've done necks that way, with 1/2" centre 'spine', nice and strong, but I still had to scarf joint the side laminations (glued up from a piece of approx 1" wide stock then ripped down into two side lams)..a lot of work. 

 

Bite the bullet and learn how to do a scarf joint. One saw cut, clean up the cut and glue it, leave to dry, plane & sand the top of the joint and job done.

Thanks CBJ

 

Think is I got a bunch of those 1/8x1.5 or 2 inch strips 3 feet long, nice hardwoods.

This is for a narrow neck strummer (1 inch wide,  mine "bought" strummer is 7/8 wide, too narrow).  It's not a terrible amount of waste for me, because I'm going to pay the same amount for the neckpiece anyway, so, a simple length cut on the bandsaw is no biggie.

 

Some of the stock I can get is actually 3/4 x 1.5 or 7/8 x 1.5   or 3/4 x 2.5 and  7/8 x 2.5

 

2.5 would give me a lot of depth to do an angle stock yes?

Would also give me a but at the box entry too.

As for the sides needing to be scarfed, I actually thought of putting wings on the headstock and butting the sides up to it - simple construction and no scarf.

 

(ps- thanks for the word correction, why did I say skiff?)

 

So, aside from the wastage, you think the strength is there?

 

Cool.

 

Thanks !

 

Jim

If you've got a bandsaw, then the cutting is pretty easy.  With proper laminated necks, I usually use a 1/4 - 1/2" centre, then you've got a proper contribution to the strength from all 3 laminations, and its more likely to have better warp resistance. 

 

Another option is to laminate with a thin centre stripe flanked with 3/4" pieces and trim to width. The strength of the neck is really in it's depth...if you look at a Turkish Saz, they have really narrow necks, but they are pretty deep (1 -1 1/4" deep).

I do that a lot james ,, with select pine ,, I don't put the different color wood in it tho ,,,  I glue the two 1x2 and turn em sidways ,,, in my case that makes a 1.5 inch top and 1.5 inch depth ,, I usually do this when i make a 4 stringer as i want more strength .. it really works for me   ,, have had no issues at all with stength .I usually drill a 1/16 inch hole in several places ,,squaring the tops,, then insert a brad thru em so when i glue it don t squrrelly around on me
One of the reasons for laminating necks is it's easier to find flat sawn boards, since quarter sawing is inherently wasteful.  A flat sawn board ripped in half and glued shut like a book creates a stiffer quarter sawn blank -- not that any of the flat sawn necks I've made have ever bowed themselves out of tune.
James, you should be able to get an angled head from that. I make mine from solid stock but its not much different, mine ar usually 2x 1 3/4 sometimes as thin as 1 1/5" though. 12 degree angle or about that works fine for string retention.
What you want to do is glue up two three by 3/4. Then cut out your neck profile
Hear one example
Attachments:

I have done it that way, one is documented HERE

I cant vouch for the strength as narrow as you describe, but it may be ok depending on the number of strings used, guage, tuning etc.

Experiment. Show us what you come up with!

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