Hello again Nation!
I'm currently planning my next build (and finishing my first)
And instead of rushing it, like i did with the first one, i'm trying to plan it all!
But this raises a lot of questions and considerations. This is where i hope i can get some help from you, the awesome nation of cigar box guitar builders!
- I would like to know how i get the least tension on the Neck? (i'm using Oak, since it's the only kind of useable wood i can get in this stinking country)
- Does the distance from det nut to the "machineheads" have any effect on the guitar tuning and tension or string height?
- I would like to have a bigger Head than the Neck, but what is the best way to do that?, I have considered getting getting a peace of wood, thats twice as wide as the neck and making a head.
- The angling of the head, is there a perfect way to make the cut, or doesn't it make a difference how you cut it?
There's probably more, but I can't think of them right now.
I really hope you can help me, because i really want this one to be as close to perfect as possible
Replies
Hello,
I'm new to the forum but this is what I did to be able to make 15˚ angled cuts with my mitre saw. The jig is made from flat and square plywood. The base is any size that will accommodate your neck dimensions. This jig is for scarfing ukuleles headstocks at 15˚ and the base is 9"x15". Make sure the sides of the base are 90˚ to each other because you want your cuts to be square and flat. The angled piece on top ( 2.5" fence) is set at the aforementioned 15˚ with three back supports to keep it square (90˚ to the base). You can use this type of jig to clamp your neck and headstock while gluing them together.
Good luck!
[IMG]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/padlinout/scarf-jig1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/padlinout/scarf-jig-cut.jpg[/IMG]
First, determine the scale length of your guitar (distance from nut to bridge). Second, determine how many strings you want. This will determine the approximate length of your neck. Add at least 6-8 inches (13-20cm) of wood to the neck length beyond your nut; this will give you plenty of room for a scarf jointed headstock, or a slotted headstock design, and will allow you to get even machine head spacing. You can carve away the excess later. If you've only got 1.5 cm from the nut to the first of your machine heads, that seems a bit too close; I'd feel more comfortable with a minimum of 2.5 cm. As Eric has said, yu can glue wings or ears onto the headstock to widen it; Search CBN for pics and blogs of how various builders have done this. Rand Moore and The Phrygian Kid here on CBN both show examples of slotted scarf jointed headstocks.
As others have said, oak can easily withstand 4-stringer tension. Make sure the piece of oak you use for neck wood is absolutely straight.
i have determined the scale, and that it's a 4-string. The idea for the headstock is that it's supposed to be 12 Cm.
The thing is, that the height of the fretboard is 1.5 cm higher that the headstock, and I don't know if that has any meaning, or if it doesn't matter?
Thanks for the answer(s) !
Fretboard higher than headstock is good; 1.5 cm is a bit over 1/2", which may look like a lot until you get a nut on there. Real determining factor, initially, will be the height of your strings above the first fret, which will be controlled by your nut height. What are you using for a nut?
Great!
I think I'll be using a piece of mahogany for the nut, the same as I use for the fretboard.
I found out the the cigarbox i want to use is made of Cardboard, will that still do?
see if you can find something harder for the nut even oak is better, look around for something they are not very big you should be able to dig something up.
Bone plastic corian maple.................Cheers Ron.
dont overthink it. jus go with ur gut
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