I am really struggling with making the slots in the nut the right width, right depth, etc. I don't know if I am not using the right tools, or the right technique, or both.
I use a thin backsaw for part of the cut, I also have a coping saw that has a wider blade. I bought a set of needle files, and I have the one that cuts a wedge, but it obviously can't go too deep, or the top of the slot is too wide.
I end up with the strings that are not the same height from the fingerboard, or they buzz or rattle because the slot is too wide, or they don't sit down right because the slot is too thin.
I end up making 2 or three attempts each time just to get one that's right.
What am I doing wrong? There has to be some kind of method that will make them right the first time, every time.
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It has individual rotating rubber sections for each string, so you can clamp any combination of strings. Don't know how it would work for most CBGs; the string spacing is liable to be different.
I had the idea the other day of making moving capo style slides that are on the necks of some of my DB's and CBG's
I know its been done before but I want to attempt to make up a capo that stays on the neck so I can tune either the DB or CBG to open "E" and then simply slide the capo up the neck to make "G" etc. instead of retuning for a different key.
ANy body done this? and if so can you post a pic of what you did?
I tried making nut slots and found it to be frustrating and time consuming, but not anymore! I use a zero fret and a string guide. Instead of filing slots, I drill holes. Using a simple wood fence on my drill press so the holes line up, I use a 1/16" bit on the guitar, I don't remember the bit for the bass. Here are two pictures below that illustrate. It's clearly unconventional, but I have found it works well for me and no strings jump out of the slots anymore!!! Whatever works for you.
Doug
That is an intriguing and interesting solution. I assume you make sure the holes are below the level of the zero fret? Do you notch the zero fret at all, or just let the strings lay on top?
I don't put any notches on the fret so the "nut" essentially functions as a string guide and a capo before the first fret!
If I intend to use brass bolts for nut and bridge won't the threads serve the purpose of slots?
Big Steve
I was wondering the same thing, but I made one with a bolt for a nut and it seems I have a little buzz on one string, not sure if the bolt is the issue or not.
I've used a zero fret from time to time too. They work well.
The downside is your neck must be PERFECTLY straight or you'll be chasing buzzes all over the neck.
Assuming the neck is straight, a zero fret is the easiest way I've found that takes a lot of the drudge work out of a neck set up.
I tried making nut slots and found it to be frustrating and time consuming, but not anymore! I use a zero fret and a string guide. Instead of filing slots, I drill holes. Using a simple wood fence on my drill press so the holes line up, I use a 1/16" bit on the guitar, I don't remember the bit for the bass. Here are two pictures below that illustrate. It's clearly unconventional, but I have found it works well for me and no strings jump out of the slots anymore!!! Whatever works for you.
Doug
That is an intriguing and interesting solution. I assume you make sure the holes are below the level of the zero fret? Do you notch the zero fret at all, or just let the strings lay on top?
Iggy I tried making nut slots and found it to be frustrating and time consuming, but not anymore! I use a zero fret and a string guide. Instead of filing slots, I drill holes. Using a simple wood fence on my drill press so the holes line up, I use a 1/16" bit on the guitar, I don't remember the bit for the bass. Here are two pictures below that illustrate. It's clearly unconventional, but I have found it works well for me and no strings jump out of the slots anymore!!! Whatever works for you. Doug
Ideally, the string slot should match the profile of the string. Thus the torch-tip tool, which is essentially just little round files... That's what nut-slot files are as well; they just cost more.
The harder the material of the nut the better; bone works very well. That way, the string doesn't bind as much. The tip about a bit of lube is good; graphite or other dry lube works well.
Iggy is exactly right; that's how "pro" luthiers set things up.
My nuts always seem a little too deep, I'm too lazy to knock 'em down to a reasonable height after I get the action right.
i always make the string slots shallow U shape , you want the string to sit on the slot rarther than in it , if the string sits way down in the nut your slot will either be too loose or too tight and if the grooves V shaped your gonna cause problems with the string binding on the nut more so on wound strings !
make your nut shallower in height so the strings sit on the nut not in it
hope this helps
Here's a pic of the last one i did
juju.
That is probably by problem. I am just making the slots too deep. I guess I need to make the actual nut shallower and just have the strings sit up near the top the way you have them. Nice job on that guitar btw...
Hello i always make the string slots shallow U shape , you want the string to sit on the slot rarther than in it , if the string sits way down in the nut your slot will either be too loose or too tight and if the grooves V shaped your gonna cause problems with the string binding on the nut more so on wound strings ! make your nut shallower in height so the strings sit on the nut not in it hope this helps Here's a pic of the last one i did juju.
Replies
http://www.thirdhandcapo.com/
It has individual rotating rubber sections for each string, so you can clamp any combination of strings. Don't know how it would work for most CBGs; the string spacing is liable to be different.
I know its been done before but I want to attempt to make up a capo that stays on the neck so I can tune either the DB or CBG to open "E" and then simply slide the capo up the neck to make "G" etc. instead of retuning for a different key.
ANy body done this? and if so can you post a pic of what you did?
I don't put any notches on the fret so the "nut" essentially functions as a string guide and a capo before the first fret!
I was wondering the same thing, but I made one with a bolt for a nut and it seems I have a little buzz on one string, not sure if the bolt is the issue or not.
The downside is your neck must be PERFECTLY straight or you'll be chasing buzzes all over the neck.
Assuming the neck is straight, a zero fret is the easiest way I've found that takes a lot of the drudge work out of a neck set up.
That is an intriguing and interesting solution. I assume you make sure the holes are below the level of the zero fret? Do you notch the zero fret at all, or just let the strings lay on top?
The harder the material of the nut the better; bone works very well. That way, the string doesn't bind as much. The tip about a bit of lube is good; graphite or other dry lube works well.
Iggy is exactly right; that's how "pro" luthiers set things up.
My nuts always seem a little too deep, I'm too lazy to knock 'em down to a reasonable height after I get the action right.
That is probably by problem. I am just making the slots too deep. I guess I need to make the actual nut shallower and just have the strings sit up near the top the way you have them. Nice job on that guitar btw...
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