I am trying to figure out this fret thing. I did a search but it only got more complicated.
My bridge to nut distance is 24", my fret board its self is 20".The CBG is a 4 stringer and I would not have a clue as to how many frets to put into the various calculators out their.
I am making the CBG for my son to play. I can not play myself, so I do not know about the frets.
Could somebody give me some numbers to start me out as to how many frets I should use, should I use the Dulcimers layout.
Sorry if this has already been covered. Cheers Ron
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Depending on how the guitar's gonna be played, 20 to 24 frets are probably enough. I think I saw this mentioned earlier, too, but I'll put in another plug for the program "wfret". It's freeware (do a google search--it'll show up), and I like it b/c it will print out a template for you to copy onto your fretboard. No need to worry about complicated measurements. For most quick & dirty CBG builds it's probably more than adequate.
Yes. You are looking to measure the "vibrating string length". Mountain dulcimer makers and players use the term VSL to describe what we here call scale length.
Mungo Park said:
When you say nut to nut or bridge I am thinking it is the distance fron the inside to inside of the nut/bridge. Cheers Ron.
My last build has a 25" scale(nut to nut), with 19 frets. Iused bluegrass strings, they have warmer sound. Try the Stewart macdonald web site for good fret calculator.
My last build has a 25" scale(nut to nut), with 19 frets. Iused bluegrass strings, they have warmer sound. Try the Stewart macdonald web site for good fret calculator.
My last build has a 25" scale(nut to nut), with 19 frets. Iused bluegrass strings, they have warmer sound. Try the Stewart macdonald web site for good fret calculator.
I find the fret calculator on the Stewmac site very useful. You can input inches or mm but I prefer mm as that's the system we use in Australia and also it is easier to estimate a fraction of a mm when measuring. For example 34.2 mm is just more than 34 mm but not as much as 1/2 a mm greater. I figure that on a cigar box guitar a placement of frets within .25 of a mm is OK. I mark the fretboard with a pencil measuring against a 1 metre steel rule and always measure from the nut to the fret - NOT the distance between frets (this gives greater accuracy) I first decide where I want to position the bridge on the box to take regard of both the pattern/picture/graphics on the lid and also to get a position approximately 1/3 of the distance from the end of the box. I believe this gives better resonance than positioning the bridge too close to the end of the box. I then decide what fret scale I want to use (generally the same as my Martin D-18 which is 25.340" or 643.636mm). This then determines the length of my neck - - measure from the position determined for the bridge to where the nut will be to establish neck length. A Martin D-18 has 20 frets and you probably will not want any more than this. Another very good fret calculator is FretCalc which is available at http://www.dougsparling.com/software/fretcalc/index.php Regards John D Stewmac calculator image:
Any of the fret calculators will give you the measurements. Try to get them in cm/mm, and get a good metal mm ruler. Then be sure to measure from the nut to the fret each time so the tiny errors (or big ones!) don't compound. Then mark them off with a pencil line clear across the face of the fretboard. I look at it for a good few minutes, because often your eye will tell you when the progression looks off. Measure twice, fret once!
What will you be using for frets? Fretwire or improvised?
I do not have a printer and tried to print it on another printer but it would not do it properly, groan.
So this was plan B, which if it was the best it would be plan A.
Being a Nubie doing the frets for the "expierence" of it.
Roger, I hear what you are saying, I use to build furniture for a living so I know of what you speak.
I also build fishing rods for sale and same deal and some just wont return the time investment, fine for friends and rellies but not worth trying to collect on as a sale.
In the frozen north I would not have a clue who sells these things around here. One fellow out east sells them but that is a long ways from here.
I am a long ways from ever selling one right now but something to remember.
Cheers Ron.
I use a computer program called WFret, you punch in the scale and how many frets you want, and you print out a template that you tape to the neck and mark where the frets should be. Very very simple.
Replies
Enjoy!
Mungo Park said:
Cheers Ron.
http://www.dougsparling.com/software/fretcalc/index.php Regards John D Stewmac calculator image:
FretCalc image:What will you be using for frets? Fretwire or improvised?
So this was plan B, which if it was the best it would be plan A.
Being a Nubie doing the frets for the "expierence" of it.
Roger, I hear what you are saying, I use to build furniture for a living so I know of what you speak.
I also build fishing rods for sale and same deal and some just wont return the time investment, fine for friends and rellies but not worth trying to collect on as a sale.
In the frozen north I would not have a clue who sells these things around here. One fellow out east sells them but that is a long ways from here.
I am a long ways from ever selling one right now but something to remember.
Cheers Ron.
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