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Permalink Reply by Paul H (PRH) on June 8, 2011 at 10:22am

Forstner bits (to david) have a small center spike t help guide the bit. As far as hand held drills, if you can't use a drill press then clamping the work down would be all that much more important. I have an inexpensive drill press attachment I use where the hand drill is fastened to the press (20.00 or so if I remember, maybe Craftsman?).
The sturdy hole saw bit mentioned here has worked but don't try and back it out while it's still turning (argh) or it can skip around on you.
BTW, Rafal's comment about backer boards being a way to cut down on tear out is "on the money".
Speaking from bad experiences here, hope this helps.

Boxes here are cheap and available but I've never wrecked one that I didn't have several hours work in. (g).

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Permalink Reply by Bruce Trappes on June 8, 2011 at 11:45am

I like Rafals suggestion too.

I'm now thinking of sandwhiching anything that requires a larger hole between 2 pieces of scrap ply.

I use brad point drills for smaller holes up to 10mm.....similat I assume to forstner bits.

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Permalink Reply by Michael Gajeski on June 8, 2011 at 1:05pm

i use a rotozip style bit and a routerbase attachment for a dremel, then clean it up with a small file and sand paper.

 

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Permalink Reply by Chuck Dubman on June 8, 2011 at 3:23pm

Cheap needle files (i.e. Generals) cut as fast as a Dremel but don't get out of control.  For soft Spanish cedar, an X-Acto glides through, can produce nice detail.  Dremels are fine, just take a bit of practice to avoid nicking nice wood (turn into distress marks).  Tip -- using an undersized bit prevents kickback on tight inside curves.

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Permalink Reply by Michael Fred Johnson on June 9, 2011 at 3:08am

I use a homemade hole cutter (think I have a photo on my page) the cutter is a sharpened piece of broken hacksaw blade.Use the same tool to cut the inner and outer circles for inlaying a rosette

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