This is awesome. 20+ years ago I used to be a polymer clay artist, mostly making imitative materials like ivory and turqoise...I was just googling to look for ideas to incorporate those old skills into cbgs...I was thinking knobs too.
Hullo one and all.This is a little add on to the video that I made.I mentioned in the video that the bottom of the bridge has to be flat.The reason for this is the rod piezo doesn't seem to like air underneath it and it will create feedback.When I fitted the bridge I made in the video,i was getting feedback and upon close inspection the bottom of the bridge had small gaps around it.
So I took a sheet of 1mm cork,cut out the shape of the bridge bottom,made a small hole in the cork to enable to rod to go through and I then put a thin beading of silicone sealant around the edge of the cork and pressed it home onto the bottom of the bridge,effectively encompassing the rod.I let it dry overnight,fitted it and hey presto!...No feedback!.I suppose you could use any suitable material such as thin rubber sheeting,thin wood or even card.I hope this helps anyone who has used or is thinking of using this method....
Thank you,Thorsten.It's a method that works for me.I'm also going to try using the clay with a disc piezo to see how that works. That and a few other things will be in a follow up video....
Thank you for the video, Micky. I used to make figures with fimo many years ago. They have kept their shape through all the years. So these bridges will probably last for a long long time.
Thank you,Uncle John.It was my first upload and even though I had a few problems getting it on the site,i'm pleased with it and I now feel confident enough to upload a wee vid of me playing my Diddley Bow (God help everyone!)....
Thanks for the good instruction, Micky. Seems a great method with or without the piezo rod. I think it will be fun to try some time. Pretty good background music too.
The saddle should be snug but not to tight that it doesn`t move in the slot. Easiest way to make a rod bridge is by using the spacer method...no need to router out the slot.
Comments
Hullo Michael.I don't see why it shouldn't work for knobs,too.Give it a go and post your results....
This is awesome. 20+ years ago I used to be a polymer clay artist, mostly making imitative materials like ivory and turqoise...I was just googling to look for ideas to incorporate those old skills into cbgs...I was thinking knobs too.
Hullo one and all.This is a little add on to the video that I made.I mentioned in the video that the bottom of the bridge has to be flat.The reason for this is the rod piezo doesn't seem to like air underneath it and it will create feedback.When I fitted the bridge I made in the video,i was getting feedback and upon close inspection the bottom of the bridge had small gaps around it.
So I took a sheet of 1mm cork,cut out the shape of the bridge bottom,made a small hole in the cork to enable to rod to go through and I then put a thin beading of silicone sealant around the edge of the cork and pressed it home onto the bottom of the bridge,effectively encompassing the rod.I let it dry overnight,fitted it and hey presto!...No feedback!.I suppose you could use any suitable material such as thin rubber sheeting,thin wood or even card.I hope this helps anyone who has used or is thinking of using this method....
Thank you,Thorsten.It's a method that works for me.I'm also going to try using the clay with a disc piezo to see how that works. That and a few other things will be in a follow up video....
Will look forward to it Micky.
Thank you,Uncle John.It was my first upload and even though I had a few problems getting it on the site,i'm pleased with it and I now feel confident enough to upload a wee vid of me playing my Diddley Bow (God help everyone!)....
Thanks for the good instruction, Micky. Seems a great method with or without the piezo rod. I think it will be fun to try some time. Pretty good background music too.
The saddle should be snug but not to tight that it doesn`t move in the slot. Easiest way to make a rod bridge is by using the spacer method...no need to router out the slot.