plans (6)

A little hello from Switzerland,

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Here is my first cigar-box guitar created entirely pieces by pieces for laser cutting. My PIRATE'S GUITAR is an electro acoustic mini guitar with a special short scale of 488mm and can be mounted with 3 strings like a CIGAR-BOX GUITAR (tuned GDg) or with 4 strings like a UKULELE (tuned GCEA Low-G). She is playable acoustically but also amplified through a passive piezo pickup include under the bridge. The body and the neck are made of 61 pieces cut with a laser cutter in 2 peaces of 3mm and 5mm plywood. It also requires 4 classical guitar tuning pegs, a piezo mic capsule (already wired with an output jack socket), some screws, a fast wood glue and some nylon classical guitar strings. The graphics are burned by the laser during the cutting. For the mounting, it's like "Lego", every pieces clips with the other with some wood-glue, nothing to measure. Just look at the video...

The files of the original design are downloadable under Creative Commons Licence BY-NC-SA on our website: www.notsonoisy.com/pirates-guitar
We have not yet drafted "Instructables", but it's coming. In the meantime we have already organized 3 workshops where 30 people had mounted their own Pirate's Guitar, at the FABLAB-FRIBOURG, here in Switzerland.

I hope that will inspire you. Best regards. NOTsoNOISY Guillaume Reymond.

One of our workshops. Just 1 afternoon to build their own instruments.

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Ray Jacobs Rocky Mountain Dulcimer

Making my own 3-stringed instrument has been such a joyous revelation!

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It began for me when I met an ex-fourth grade teacher from Montana, named Ray Jacobs. We were in California, where he was helping people turn cardboard and scrap wood into something that looked like a 3-string banjo — it sounded just amazing! And it looked so simple! I thought “shoot, I could play that!” (I’ve been guitar and music challenged for years).

Here's Ray and Shirley playing: 

 

Ray taught fourth grade for 20 years; many of his kids learned to make and play these simple, 3-stringed instruments. He also gave them an old V-8 engine and challenged them to take it apart and put it together; he took them to a local pond to squelch and splash and take buckets of pond water back to class, where they put it in split 55-gallon drums so they could play and learn when their “other work” was done; he shepherded 20 generations of kids into 5th grade, many of them with dulcimers they had made themselves, on which they could all play melody and chords — extraordinary gifts!

I thought, “someone should put this into a book so every 4th grade teacher can do what Ray did!” (I’ve been a “teaching artist” in the Oregon schools, and know how hard is for kids to get good, hands-on activities. Teachers are so bound by schedules, test requirements, and policy that they can’t afford to engage kids in anything not specified in the curriculum. So it takes an outsider to do the creative projects.)

I tried to find someone else to write up Ray's story (he also makes a whole range of beautiful instruments from cardboard, gourds, wood, you name it), but noone was as excited as I was, so when I took the family back east last October, we stopped for a few days with Ray and his wife Shirley (here's a nice little video about them from Western Folklife). He and I put a dulcimer together, and I took notes and pictures. It turned into a book – you can download it (free) here. (It’s also available as a (full color!) $10 paperback at the same site, or on Amazon and createspace.) If you like it, please share!

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Plan our Work

I recently was with a group with the State of TN starting a new initiative. After a week long series of training was over we were to make an Action Plan for our District.

Right off the bat someone in my group shouted "I'm really interested in  [such and such]. I thought "really, that is a project, not a process; it has nothing to do with an Action Plan". A plan was to help state agencies work together to prepare clients to be received by non-profit orginizations so they could finalize sucessful reentry for these people into society.

Well we ended up selecting three projects - but no cohesive plan emerged. No wonder the State does not work any better than it does. There really was no cohesivenness between these three projects though all were great stand alone and excellent outcomes. Yes they were needed items of business that may have been goals of a plan, but they now had scuttled the chance to form a process that moved agency through agency into the non-profit orginazations to provide seemless service.

I look at my last build. I wanted to build a certain way, build a four stringer, fretless, and had some design features I wanted to try. The results was pretty good. Then I look at the really good stuff on the Net. Why doesn't mine look and sound like that? It dawned on me. I put a lot of projects together. I want a fret board like that, the box/neck connection like that, this number of strings so the neck needs to be this wide, this many pickups so lets find a schematic, need sound holes these look snazzy, borrow them, and then mix it together and after all these projects get done I should have a CBG.

Is that really making an action plan before we start building  -  just asking?  Any opinions? If we are aiming to build that CBG with the greatest appeal soundwise, appearance wise, and playability wise: what does a real CBG building plan to produce quality in appearance, playability, and sound look like? What should we have in place, how much should we prepared in what areas, what is it important to have precicely worked out before even starting, how organic can we allow ourselves to be and in what areas? Where can we be sloppy and where must we be right to that silly millimeter?

Opinions, experience, your personal process or preferance, feedback, referances, any contribution welcome!

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Cigar Box Ukulele Project 1


I have found a couple sources for Cigar Boxes around my "summer home" in the SF Bay Area. I quickly made a one-stringer (diddly bow-like) CBG w/o frets, mainly to get the idea of how to attach the neck to the cigar box. Another goal was to make an instrument I could use to play around with a slider while using a chop stick to pound on the strings (a new style of playing), as well as picking while fretting with imaginary frets (also a new experience for me). Wish I knew more about how to play the Blues. My 5 y.o. daughter likes to fool around with this one- stringer as well, so I might just let her keep it as a toy. Anything to encourage her music interests. I can always add frets for her later.

Since all of the cigar boxes I've found are smaller than I imagined, I think they're probably best suited for use in a smaller instrument such as a ukulele. Fortunately, I'm familiar with ukes, and my favorite sized uke is the concert size (length = 24'' or 25'', a 15" scale with 17 or 18 frets, and 4 strings tuned GCEA). So I have been thinking about building a Cigar Box Ukulele (CBU). I'll use this Blog on CBN as my "thinking pad", and perhaps some of my ideas can be of use to other want-to-be Cigar Box luthiers (like me).

My first concern was how difficult it might be to reach the highest (pitched) frets (15, 16, 17 and 18) which are usually found on the part of the fretboard that overlays the body. With a somewhat bulky rectangular cigar box as a body, they might be hard to get to, so I decided I want to extend the neck a couple more inches so all the frets will be on the neck. To make sure this would work, I ran the Stew-Mac Fret Calculator to make sure I could get all the frets on a 10" neck. So, here's the fret positioning information for a 15" scale length ukulele:


As you can see, with a 15" scale length, you can have a 18 fret "fretboard" on the neck of 10" and have
5 more inches of space across the face of your cigar box before you reach the bridge.

Let's see. The cigar box I want to use is 7.75" wide x 8.0625" high x 2.75" deep. I want the bridge placed about 1/3 of the way across the cigar box from the tail piece. That's 2.58" across to the bridge, leaving 5.17" of space before the neck, where you'd strum with your right hand. But, the bridge will have to go (2.58 + 0.17 = ) 2.75" up from the tail piece to maintain the 15" scale length, with 5" on the box and 10" on the neck. Compare that to my 20 fret concert uke which has just under 4.75" of space between the last fret and the bridge. That's not bad. I never use those higher frets (19 & 20) anyways.

Time for another diagram.

Hmmm... Need to use larger print next time. Or, keep my diagrams smaller. Well, at least you can see the relative size and orientation of the parts.

By the way, this is not a left handed uke. I draw them as I hold them, not as the audience may see them. But, if you want a left handed CBU, all you need to do is to reverse the order of the strings. Everything else is symmetrical around the central axis running down the middle of the instrument, so it's good for right- or left-handed players.

The ruler above the neck shows the 15'' scale length, with 10" over the neck for the frets, and 5" over the box for picking and strumming. The nut and bridge will be a movable bridge (at least initially) so I can (hopefully) correct for any intonation problems, at least those related to nut and bridge height and placement. An instrument with "good intonation" is in tune throughout its entire scale, and that means my fret placement has to be exact, as well as good nut and bridge placement. Also, sometimes tilting the bridge counter-clockwise a millimeter or two can help with intonation problems caused by thicker middle and bass strings (but maybe not for the re-entrantly tuned 4th string - another problem to be solved later). So, it's probably a good thing to keep the bridge and nuts movable until you've completed your instrument build and have played with it a while and have had a chance to tinker with its setup to your satisfaction.

The ruler at the bottom of the diagram shows the length-over-all of the instrument, which should be (ideally) 24''. Mine is a bit short, I believe because of the short size of the cigar box resonator. Notice that the stick (neck) of my uke will run through the cigar box and come out the other end, by about 1". There I will either use some kind of bracket for a tail piece or drill 4 holes in the tail end of the stick and anchor the strings on this side using beads or something. I'll figure out those details later. I prefer this method of mounting the stick (neck) through the box because the stick (neck) will hold all the stress from the strings once they are tuned. That means I won't have to set up any internal bracing or figure out how to do any special neck-to-box joints. Keep it simple, Sam.

Notice I use two sound holes on either side of the four uke strings. This is pretty "un-uke-like", because most ukes have a larger single sound hole placed strategically under the strings like any acoustical guitar. However, this change is dictated by the fact that my uke will have a stick (neck) running down the middle of the box where a single sound hole would normally be placed. A stick covering most of the sound hole would make the sound hole pretty ineffective.

The Headstock

I usually begin at the head and work my way down. As the diagram above shows, the four strings will be run from the tuners on the headstock, across the nut, down the neck and across the cigar box to the bridge and are finally terminated at the tail piece. The strings are drawn 3/8'' apart, which is pretty standard for ukuleles and stick dulcimers. If you prefer 1/2" apart, you can do it with a wider stick (neck). The separation between the two outer strings and their respective edges of the neck is 3/16''. So, with 3/8'' string-to-string spacing, the width of the neck should be very close to 1.5''. For 1/2'' sting-to-string spacing, the width of the neck should be close to 2", providing a 1/4'' separation on each side from the two outer strings and their respective edges of the neck.

However, on a typical ukulele, the neck usually has a taper of about a centimeter on both sides, getting wider as it approaches the body. But, for simplicity's sake, I am NOT going to cut the neck with a taper. This decision is based on the fact that I am working with hand tools (no table saws, etc.) and because my wood working skills are rather limited. For these same reasons, the back of the neck will have minimal rounding and there will be no heel on the neck as used on traditional ukuleles to connect the neck to the sound box.

As you can see, the headstock design will be rather plain and simple. Like your typical ukulele or guitar, the head will be tilted "downward" by about 15 degrees. This usually involves cutting the head-piece off the neck at a 15 degree angle, flipping the head over and gluing it back on to the neck. I'm told that this is called a "scarf joint" and that the shallower the angle, the stronger the joint. So, a 15 degree angle will be stronger than say a 45 degree angle because there is a larger surface area for the glue to hold the two parts together. You can also use wood dowels or screws for additional strength, but my experience (so far) indicates that they aren't really necessary if you are using a good wood glue, are clamping the pieces together and letting it dry overnight.

My headstock will be 5'' long, 2'' wide, and 7/16" deep. Yes, I know the diagram says 0.75'' (3/4"), but I forgot to take into account the requirement of the tuners that the headstock be 7/16'' deep. Your tuners may differ, so double check that measurement with your tuners. I'll have to figure out how to plane down the head to 7/16". Lot's of planing, filing and sanding, I guess.

The headstock build will also involve gluing two "wings" or side pieces on to widen the headstock to at least 2 inches. The 4 separate tuners will be placed in a "2 by 2" configuration with about two inches separation so there will be plenty of room to route the strings to their respective tuners. Hmmm... Since I have to add to the width of the head, and plane it down by 1/4''; maybe I should go back to the hardware store to buy a piece of wood that is already 5'' x 2'' x 7/16'' (more likely 1/2'' deep), and preferably in the same kind of wood. That would simplify the job a lot.

Also, in the diagram above, I have added maybe 1/4'' to the length of the neck between the nut and the headstock for a 'slop factor", as my hand-sawn cuts aren't usually as accurate as I would hope.

I'll be focusing more on the headstock on my next post.


- Rand.









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