How to fit a non-adjustable 'truss rod'

I thought I would share a technique with you which I picked up from a great builder who is not a member CBN. I think you can argue that a 3 or 4 string CBG doesn't really need any additional neck strength, but I've  found myself making thinner necks recently, and I'd like to make sure they stand the test of time. I am also gearing up to have a go at making a 6 string from scratch so this is a technique I will need to learn sooner or later.

9353849696?profile=original

So, to do this you will need some mild steel bar. I got 3x13mm. A 4 metre length cost me about £4. The postage cost twice that but it was almost worth it to see the look on the delivery driver's face when he handed over a 4m long cardboard tube. You also need a router, and a bit of the correct width and depth for the bar.

9353850659?profile=originalI used the parallel guide on the router to slide along the side of the neck to cut the channel. I used a high speed and 4 shallow passes to get the finished depth (which needs to be a tiny bit deeper that the width of the bar)

9353851053?profile=originalIt fits. Now time to glue it in. I used epoxy with a long curing time. Getting the glue in the channel is quite tricky.

9353851092?profile=originalI held the bar in place with clamps and left it overnight. Make sure you put something between the clamps and the neck so you don't glue them together!

9353851671?profile=originalOnce the epoxy had set I lightly sanded the surface to remove any residue.

9353852084?profile=originalThen just glue on your fretboard as usual and you have (hopefully) a super strong bow-resistant neck that you can shape a bit more aggressively than one without a strengthening rod.

Have fun!

RK

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Comments

  • I've used 7/16"aluminum bar stock  in single and double configurations and it works well.  I use the same approach gluing the bars into the slots with epoxy. 

  • A router table is included in almost every project I've been involved with in one way or another, hence my choice. My table saw is too. What ever floats your boat.

  • Yep, a router table would be easier, but this is totally doable with a hand held router and a parallel guide.
  • Thank you for the info. I've had thoughts about rods, but hadn't known that one could be adjustment free 'til now. My experience level being a woodworker first & cbg builder 2nd, I could use either saw or router but my choice would be router mounted in a router-table to ensure stability of cut and the ends of the cut being vertical.

  • 306460121?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024306461527?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024306462876?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024306464029?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024306465139?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024You can see how it just clamps to the bench with 2 clamps.........very very solid to work on. Even put a port on the fence for the shop vac. The router and shop vac plug into the power strip for easy on and off of both. When not using it I store it in the bottom of my table saw cabinet.

  • today I saw a router table and 1350 watt router in Aldi for around £50 the two. I already have a router but was tempted all the same..

  • My router has 2 bases....a fixed and a plunge base. I just mounted the fixed base to the underside of the table and use the plunge base for free hand work. Takes less then 5 mins to set up. I will try to post a pic later to show you how it looks.

  • Thanks guys. Like I said this wasn't my idea but I always enjoy sharing the techniques I pick up along the way.

    Rooster - sadly I don't think my router (Bosch POF1400) can be mounted in a table. Could be a good excuse to buy another one, I just need to convince my wife...

  • Thanks for sharing Richey..........very easy to follow guide, as always :)

    I saw a guy do something similar to this on youtube............he wanted to use pine for the neck and added the bar to keep it straight. A router allows so many possibilities in our builds. I built a small table for my router that clamps to the work bench............takes less then 5 mins to set up. Lots of plans for these on the net ;)

    Scott.......great work on the banjo:)

  • Great post !.. clear, straight-forward directions and real nice pics. 

    I've done the same using 1/8"x3/8" steel bar. Most common table saw blades cut a 1/8" slot very nicely. Although I made 2 passes to make the slot "slightly" wider to allow for adhesive.

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