View before re bracing the inside. Note the faux resonator. I left it on my rebuild, but the sound of the guitar would be better without it. It just muffles the tone.
Thanks Red, it sounds very nice too. The top had separated all around the lower bout and had curled like potato chips. But the old top came off easy by just light knife pressure. The only hard part was at the top of the neck where the hollow neck meets the head stock block. There it was nailed down as well as glued. The old fretboard was very cheap wood with paper glued on top. The paper peeled off like old masking tape (very easy). I saved the old faded C6 chart and used it for my new fret markings that i painted over the new tiger maple board. I used Engelman Spruce from Canada for the replaced top. Hard to find long pieces of luthier spruce, but i had some that nearly reached the head block. I added a little more block so my spruce would reach plus a scrap of spruce to finish the top to the headstock. The splice was hidden by the new fretboard. You'll be surprised by the "resonator" if you take the tin top off or open up the top of your guitar. It's just a disc of thin metal (like a peanut jar lid) suspended on a dowel glued into a woodblock on the inside back of the guitar. I had all the original braces to use to re brace the inside of the guitar. They had all come loose from the old top and back. My guitar must have been stored in a very hot place and come unglued from the heat. The string tension had pulled everything apart and the old glue was crystalized (just like how new hide glue comes in a bag). It was easy to scrape all the old glue off the braces and interior. If you bring your guitar back to playing, You'll like the hollow neck tone. It sounds beautiful. Have fun.
Comments
View before re bracing the inside. Note the faux resonator. I left it on my rebuild, but the sound of the guitar would be better without it. It just muffles the tone.
Thanks Red, it sounds very nice too. The top had separated all around the lower bout and had curled like potato chips. But the old top came off easy by just light knife pressure. The only hard part was at the top of the neck where the hollow neck meets the head stock block. There it was nailed down as well as glued. The old fretboard was very cheap wood with paper glued on top. The paper peeled off like old masking tape (very easy). I saved the old faded C6 chart and used it for my new fret markings that i painted over the new tiger maple board. I used Engelman Spruce from Canada for the replaced top. Hard to find long pieces of luthier spruce, but i had some that nearly reached the head block. I added a little more block so my spruce would reach plus a scrap of spruce to finish the top to the headstock. The splice was hidden by the new fretboard. You'll be surprised by the "resonator" if you take the tin top off or open up the top of your guitar. It's just a disc of thin metal (like a peanut jar lid) suspended on a dowel glued into a woodblock on the inside back of the guitar. I had all the original braces to use to re brace the inside of the guitar. They had all come loose from the old top and back. My guitar must have been stored in a very hot place and come unglued from the heat. The string tension had pulled everything apart and the old glue was crystalized (just like how new hide glue comes in a bag). It was easy to scrape all the old glue off the braces and interior. If you bring your guitar back to playing,
You'll like the hollow neck tone. It sounds beautiful. Have fun.
Very fresh looking, gatta love getn a basket case back on the road.
I have one of these. It was a basket case. I took off the fretboard and chart and gave it a new spruce top and maple fretboard.