License plate box switched humbucker pickup ( 2 single coil positions 1 humbucker ) volume and tone control 0.022uf mullard "tropical fish" capacitor ,mahoghany body oak & mahoghany neck with "Flying V style headstock
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I plan to buy oak from one of the building supply stores....Lowe's or Home Depot.
My thought is to make a laminated neck. The number of pieces will depend on how many it takes to get the neck to the width I want. WHich will depend on how thick the wood I get is in the first place.
I plan to buy a pre-made fretboard....most likely rosewood but possibly something else depending on what is cheapest at the time. Part of me would like to get blood wood or purpleheart. But, as I said it will depend on what I can get for the lowest price.
Yeah, I know that many people intend for the plate to act as crude resonator. But, most of these that I have seen photos and videos of have a floating bridge. That's why the design here intrigues me.
Though my idea will likely get less of a resonator effect since I plan to use the wrap-around bridge which must be anchored into wood for stability. I have it figured out that the bridge would mount right near the edge of the plate and there would be a wooden block underneath to anchor it to. I have been thinking about moving the plate further towards the neck and not having the bridge posts go through the plate at all. The thing is that I want the plate to LOOK like it is a true part of the instrument rather than just being an ornament covering the top, I may use a plate on the back too to open up the sound more than a wooden back and also to lighten the over-all weight.
The bridge is bolted to the plate but by doing it like that I needed to use a couple more screws through the plate at the back end to stop the bridge buckling the plate .The idea was to use the plate as a crude resonator and at one point I thought about putting spring washers under the plate to see if I could get more resonance out of it maybe I'll try that on my next build
Yeah, that's what I want to avoid. Especially since I want to use a piezo on it along with a magnetic pickup....or maybe just the piezo.
I was thinking that you need SOME space if you want the plate to be part of the sound. Otherwise it would might not vibrate at all. I wasn't even thinking about the situation you described of having that weird vibration from too little space between them.
Now, as for your bridge, is that on top of the plate or is it sitting in a cutout through the plate? I ask this more out of curiosity as I plan to do a different bridge system anyway.
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Don't forget to post photos of your build when you've finished! ;-)
Interesting.
I plan to buy oak from one of the building supply stores....Lowe's or Home Depot.
My thought is to make a laminated neck. The number of pieces will depend on how many it takes to get the neck to the width I want. WHich will depend on how thick the wood I get is in the first place.
I plan to buy a pre-made fretboard....most likely rosewood but possibly something else depending on what is cheapest at the time. Part of me would like to get blood wood or purpleheart. But, as I said it will depend on what I can get for the lowest price.
neck is oak fret board is mahoghany all resucued from a recycling skip
Thanks for posting that photo of the neck! Photos are such a big help as I'm sure you know.
WHat kind of wood is that you used for the fret board?
Yeah, I know that many people intend for the plate to act as crude resonator. But, most of these that I have seen photos and videos of have a floating bridge. That's why the design here intrigues me.
Though my idea will likely get less of a resonator effect since I plan to use the wrap-around bridge which must be anchored into wood for stability. I have it figured out that the bridge would mount right near the edge of the plate and there would be a wooden block underneath to anchor it to. I have been thinking about moving the plate further towards the neck and not having the bridge posts go through the plate at all. The thing is that I want the plate to LOOK like it is a true part of the instrument rather than just being an ornament covering the top, I may use a plate on the back too to open up the sound more than a wooden back and also to lighten the over-all weight.
The bridge is bolted to the plate but by doing it like that I needed to use a couple more screws through the plate at the back end to stop the bridge buckling the plate .The idea was to use the plate as a crude resonator and at one point I thought about putting spring washers under the plate to see if I could get more resonance out of it maybe I'll try that on my next build
Yeah, that's what I want to avoid. Especially since I want to use a piezo on it along with a magnetic pickup....or maybe just the piezo.
I was thinking that you need SOME space if you want the plate to be part of the sound. Otherwise it would might not vibrate at all. I wasn't even thinking about the situation you described of having that weird vibration from too little space between them.
Now, as for your bridge, is that on top of the plate or is it sitting in a cutout through the plate? I ask this more out of curiosity as I plan to do a different bridge system anyway.
Doesn't need to be a lot ,as long as it only touchs around the outside of the box otherwise you get an annoying buzz
Cool! I love the sound of that.
How much space did you have between the plate and the "center block" of the neck through the body?
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