Making the transition from CBG to CBD — help for a newbie

Hi Guys...and Diane, Been through the postings and found some help but have to admit a lot of it is over my head. I want to make my first dulcimer based on the Cigar Box Guitar rather than the lap style. It looks like most are three string, with an new trend to move into four and even multiple sets of four (beyond me). so I want to go pretty basic on my first maybe a 3 string with dual strings on the lower set? I can't find a sound file of a blues-cimer? So one question is optimal neck length? Do I need special tuners, I see stew mac has dulcimer tuners (more pricey than guitar tuners?) It looks like "zero" fret is just no nut and a additional fret where the nut would usually be? This keeps the action lower for picking? What about the bridge, should that be kept low as possible as well. Other than that they appear to be pretty similar or am I missing something? Thanks in advance.

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  • Basically it ain't no different than a regular CBG built with frets - except some of the frets are missing. Otherwise, make it how you like! I generally build 15" or 17". I like a zero fret, but if you were making a fretted cbg with comfortable action with a more traditional nut, go for that. Same tuners, same strings, same everything, except the frets. Open power chord tuning that suits your ear: DAd, GDg, AEa, etc.

    Then wail away!

    (I'll post a sound clip of the blues-cimer one day, I hope.)
  • Hi, I hope you decide to make a CBG dulcimer. I have made these in all lengths, and the preference I am finding is the 25.4 guitar length. Some of the older dulcimer lengths are 27 to 30 inches, which for a lap dulcimer is OK, but the neck is too long for guitar position. Them frets are mighty w-i-d-e at the longer scale lengths. I like the zero fret with the nut guiding where the strings are routed. The reason I use it all the time is because intonation is more accurate, as the bottom of all the strings are exactly the same height from the fret board. To make a very accurate nut is harder than it looks, as the slots have to be sized for the string width, (need proper files), and the depth must be equal, (gauge needed). Then, if you want to experiment with different size strings, you will have to rework the nut widths. The zero fret is easier to use. The height of the bridge determines the "action", and is critical. Start with no more than two or three strings. I have made dulcimers with as many as 12 strings, four triple courses. Do not start with a lot of strings.
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