The neck wood.....is there really that thin?

I'm gathering material for my very first CB guitar build. I have one ask, so 1x 3 oak really the right size for a 3 stringer? It just seems to be thin for a neck. I've never actually seen a CBG in person so I'm having a hard time accepting that 1 inch lumber is robust enough to handle the string tension. A second question I have is has anyone ever tried steaming the neck wood and putting a slight back bend in it to compensate for string tension?

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  • I made a 3 string dulcimer with aspen neck and purple heart fretboard that I was able to go super thin along the playing surface. It was an experiment that worked. I have a daughter with MD and I wanted to find a wood that was ultra light, yet strong. Only trouble is it is soft, so it mars easy. It's also the cheapest wood usually, so if you're on a budget... the neck is about 5/8" thick and 2 years old- holding perfect pitch still!

  • Not to Hijack the thread but i'm also building my first CBG, I have a maple 1x2 for my neck, I have planned to reinforce it inside the box and at the base of the neck. (The plan is to have 3 strings in open G) Should bowing be an issue? Most of the video's I've watched haven't added the fingerboard but after reading this thread i'm a bit concerned about the prospects of my new toy bowing after its finished.

    • My first choice of box is a little deeper than normal. About 4 inches. So I'm actually going to laminate my maple into a 2x3 and then work it down so it feels more like a regular neck. Also going to add a fret board salvaged from an acoustic. I figure if I can pull the frets out of it without hurting it then I can glue the fret side down and have a fresh rosewood surface to work with. I'll probably try to reuse the truss rod from this old neck too. I know I'm way over thinking it but I really don't want the neck to warp.
    • Oak and maple are strong. With the 1/4" fretboard on the 3/4" x 1.5" neck, you really, really shouldn't ever have a bowing problem as long as you start with straight stock.

    • Although different wood, i regularly use 19 mm,[3/4 ] jarrah, and sometimes maple for my necks on 3 stringers, never had a problem, but i normally add a 3/4 thickener inside the box extending to a neck heel, i've also done 4 stringers with the same arrangement without a problem, often with a taper to a thinner head

    • thanks for the reply, i plan to add a strip underneath where i cut out for the lid

  • I have seen some really nice looking necks on here though. I've run across some really nice "hand made" 6 string necks "truss rod and all." I have seen some nice 3&4 string necks aswell!
  • Yeah ,,I wasn't satisfied w the thin neck I came out with. Just seems too thin. "I used a piece of 1×2 poplar." fills really different after being used to a 6 string or an acoustic 6 string neck ,but still trying to figure Out how to get my necks looking and filling like other guitar necks that I have grown used to.
  • Agree with the previous posts. I made my first two with maple 1X2 through-necks, fretted, and both bowed badly. Able to recover them by reinforcing the necks with another piece on the back side, but unless you just want a fretless slide guitar, you will need more strength than a 1x2 alone can provide. Welcome to the addiction!
    • problem might have been that they were already slightly bowed and with string tension the problem got worse. I have maple neck CBGs that have been under tension for 8+ years with no trouble.

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