I've searched the site here and have found reference to Krylon (or other brand) clear coat enamels, but has anyone thoughts on using spray enamel colors like Krylon on CBGs? I'm going to use a clear coat in any case. Thought is for coloring the neck. I probably won't use acrylics tho as they seem to be more plastic in feel. Polyurethane is out of the question for me on necks as the one I did first seems a little sticky.
Thanks all.
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I bought some stuff called Bush Oil (brand name) at a woodworking show several years ago. This stuff leaves the wood surface feeling like silk. I believe it is tung based. I have not seen it for a while and never in big box stores. Goes on like danish oil.
Watco danish oil is good stuff. I have used it before.
JIM SAVAGE said:
i use wood dye mixed with lacquer thinner through a airbrush.(drys fast) and then 2 or three coats of watco danish oil finish,drys very hard and can be reaplied at any time.
You can use certain types of paints over one another, but how much the two different types of paints will stick to each other will depend on the two different types of finishes used. Certain paints will not be compatible with other types of finishes at all. I agree with Don.
I have spray painted used guitars with an unknown finish type on them without taking the original finish off. Painting anything results in a chemical (the paint itself) and a mechanical (sanding marks in the wood or old finish) bond. I have spray painted used guitars with an unknown finish type on them without taking the original finish off. I just clean the guitar off really well with a cleaner/wax remover and sand/scuff up the old finish with a fine grit of sandpaper to give me a good mechanical bond before painting over the old finish. Then I clean all of the sanding dust completely off before painting it. You could try this and spray a very small area with the spray can of paint you have to see if it sprays on the old finish evenly without turning into a running mess that I can only describe as mixing oil and water together(if it does this the finishes are not compatible at all). If the newly applied spray can paint flows evenly over the old paint and looks good then you should be ok.
The safest bet is too strip the old finish completely off.
Scotty C. said:
I just ordered some Rustoleum Gloss White spray paint for a build... The box was already painted white, but a big section of it chipped off in the process of cutting the neck slot, forcing me to sand off a lot of the paint in fixing it. The big question i have is whether or not the paint I ordered is enamel or not; I can't find any pertinent information online. If it is, Don's post indicated "One should never put lacquer over enamels" ; I'd have to buy the clear coat in the same Rustoleum brand to go over it. Not a big deal, it's easily order-able online for less than $10, but I like to save money wherever I can. This can be an expensive hobby...
i use wood dye mixed with lacquer thinner through a airbrush.(drys fast) and then 2 or three coats of watco danish oil finish,drys very hard and can be reaplied at any time.
I just ordered some Rustoleum Gloss White spray paint for a build... The box was already painted white, but a big section of it chipped off in the process of cutting the neck slot, forcing me to sand off a lot of the paint in fixing it. The big question i have is whether or not the paint I ordered is enamel or not; I can't find any pertinent information online. If it is, Don's post indicated "One should never put lacquer over enamels" ; I'd have to buy the clear coat in the same Rustoleum brand to go over it. Not a big deal, it's easily order-able online for less than $10, but I like to save money wherever I can. This can be an expensive hobby...
Glaze said:
Different spray can types of paints will have a different feel, but they will work and it depends on what you personally prefer. Nitro lacquer made decades ago was very hard and brittle(it cracks on vintage guitars). Most of the nitro lacquer that you can still buy today has plasticizers in it which makes it less hard/brittle and makes it feel stickier. Guitar makers want the old style nitro lacquer and paint manufacturers want durability...
Different spray can types of paints will have a different feel, but they will work and it depends on what you personally prefer. Nitro lacquer made decades ago was very hard and brittle(it cracks on vintage guitars). Most of the nitro lacquer that you can still buy today has plasticizers in it which makes it less hard/brittle and makes it feel stickier. Guitar makers want the old style nitro lacquer and paint manufacturers want durability...
Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil (or a good brand of tung oil) is an excellent choice for an easy to apply hand rubbed oil finish on a neck and fingerboard, but you can't find the Sutherland Welles finish at the local Home Depot(they will have a different brand). It will leave a dull non glossy finish on wood that will be durable. This finish will also darken the wood significantly and some people may not want that.
Home depot also has spray cans of Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac which would be a good finish on a neck and fingerboard. It's cheap too.
Any finish on a neck that you feel is too sticky can be made to feel far less sticky by lightly sanding the back of the neck with 600 grit sandpaper. Warning: This will make a glossy finish look dull. I lightly sanded the back of one of my guitar necks with 600 grit sandpaper that I finished with nitro lacquer because it just felt too sticky.
Krylon spray enamel is really colored _lacquer_, not enamel. Check the solvents,
laquers use ketones such as acetone or MEK. Enamels use turps or mineral spirits
(aka aliphatic solvents). Handle it like nitro, and you'll be very pleased with the
results.
I'm not sure that that would work. The oil needs to soak into the fibers of the wood. That's the whole idea behind using an oil finish. You can use laquer or poly over an oil finish to keep it looking good.
Scotty C. said:
Has anyone ever tried tung oil over a surface that has been partially painted? Would that require a sealer over it first?
Replies
JIM SAVAGE said:
Scotty
You can use certain types of paints over one another, but how much the two different types of paints will stick to each other will depend on the two different types of finishes used. Certain paints will not be compatible with other types of finishes at all. I agree with Don.
I have spray painted used guitars with an unknown finish type on them without taking the original finish off. Painting anything results in a chemical (the paint itself) and a mechanical (sanding marks in the wood or old finish) bond. I have spray painted used guitars with an unknown finish type on them without taking the original finish off. I just clean the guitar off really well with a cleaner/wax remover and sand/scuff up the old finish with a fine grit of sandpaper to give me a good mechanical bond before painting over the old finish. Then I clean all of the sanding dust completely off before painting it. You could try this and spray a very small area with the spray can of paint you have to see if it sprays on the old finish evenly without turning into a running mess that I can only describe as mixing oil and water together(if it does this the finishes are not compatible at all). If the newly applied spray can paint flows evenly over the old paint and looks good then you should be ok.
The safest bet is too strip the old finish completely off.
Scotty C. said:
I just ordered some Rustoleum Gloss White spray paint for a build... The box was already painted white, but a big section of it chipped off in the process of cutting the neck slot, forcing me to sand off a lot of the paint in fixing it. The big question i have is whether or not the paint I ordered is enamel or not; I can't find any pertinent information online. If it is, Don's post indicated "One should never put lacquer over enamels" ; I'd have to buy the clear coat in the same Rustoleum brand to go over it. Not a big deal, it's easily order-able online for less than $10, but I like to save money wherever I can. This can be an expensive hobby...
Glaze said:
Different spray can types of paints will have a different feel, but they will work and it depends on what you personally prefer. Nitro lacquer made decades ago was very hard and brittle(it cracks on vintage guitars). Most of the nitro lacquer that you can still buy today has plasticizers in it which makes it less hard/brittle and makes it feel stickier. Guitar makers want the old style nitro lacquer and paint manufacturers want durability...
Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil (or a good brand of tung oil) is an excellent choice for an easy to apply hand rubbed oil finish on a neck and fingerboard, but you can't find the Sutherland Welles finish at the local Home Depot(they will have a different brand). It will leave a dull non glossy finish on wood that will be durable. This finish will also darken the wood significantly and some people may not want that.
Home depot also has spray cans of Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac which would be a good finish on a neck and fingerboard. It's cheap too.
Any finish on a neck that you feel is too sticky can be made to feel far less sticky by lightly sanding the back of the neck with 600 grit sandpaper. Warning: This will make a glossy finish look dull. I lightly sanded the back of one of my guitar necks with 600 grit sandpaper that I finished with nitro lacquer because it just felt too sticky.
Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:
laquers use ketones such as acetone or MEK. Enamels use turps or mineral spirits
(aka aliphatic solvents). Handle it like nitro, and you'll be very pleased with the
results.
Scotty C. said:
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