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straight cuts, please help!

Posted by Jonathan on June 14, 2010 at 4:33am in Building Secrets, Tips, Advice, Discussion

So i have a friend who has used his carpentry experiance and amazing tools to cut boards for me which have been perfect.  Now that I'm trying to do it all myself i realize how smooth he is and how invaluable a good shop is.

 

so I have no shop and i do all my work outdoors on the weekend.  I've been using my jigsaw but the blades or the saw is squirrelly and even if my line is perfect; the underneath is wavy.  I've tried planing but since neither side is flat my board is always uneven.  I feel i keep wasting wood and I don't know what to do.  even if i could get a band saw or a table saw, i really have no where to put it.  do i need a circular saw.  I really don't have the work space for one of those.

 

I want to cut a three foot long strip that's about an inch and half.  any suggestions!

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Replies

  • Jonathan June 15, 2010 at 10:00am
    after searching all these power tools i really want a small shop area now.
  • Jonathan June 15, 2010 at 9:59am
    that's a great idea! My carpenter friend is a bit of a loner so he probably doesn't know but i'll look around for sure. I just found an online mill that offers swamp ash, cherry, walnut, hard maple, beech and oak for what seems a reasonable price. I'm waiting to find out if they have some unreasonable minimum order, keeping my fingers crossed that they don't.

    those necks look good btw, i want to join your club:)
    Jef Long said:
    hey jonathon...
    take a look in your area and see if u can find a woodworking club..
    Mine is $60 a year and has 2 shops full of beautiful well maintained equipment.. anytime i go there there is 20 or so lonely old men who are like the yodas of woodworking.. they take a huge interest in what i do and give me all kinds of advice and help...
    best $60 i ever spent, see if u have one nearby..

    btw last week i went there for 2 hours.. and cut & thicknessed all these neck lams and fingerboards (which i've been gluing up one or two a day at home as i have only 8 clamps..
    NeckBlanksJune2010.jpg
  • The Phrygian Kid June 15, 2010 at 8:58am
    hey jonathon...
    take a look in your area and see if u can find a woodworking club..
    Mine is $60 a year and has 2 shops full of beautiful well maintained equipment.. anytime i go there there is 20 or so lonely old men who are like the yodas of woodworking.. they take a huge interest in what i do and give me all kinds of advice and help...
    best $60 i ever spent, see if u have one nearby..

    btw last week i went there for 2 hours.. and cut & thicknessed all these neck lams and fingerboards (which i've been gluing up one or two a day at home as i have only 8 clamps..
    NeckBlanksJune2010.jpg
  • ChickenboneJohn June 15, 2010 at 5:34am
    A good Stanley plane is a great tool, I have a couple of them, no. 4 and 5, given to me free! Sawing oak is a real pain as it is really tough stuff ..but sawing thru 1/12inch thick? Surely you only need 1 inch thick for a neck and just cut to the appropriate width ? A good handsaw used properly should give you a decent straight line, but it is all down to technique and practice.

    And the benchtop belt sander..couldn't live without it now I've got one!
  • Skeesix June 15, 2010 at 12:04am
    The Japanese are great woodworkers, with their own kinds of tools. Their pull saws are considered the ultimate hand saw. If you could possibly find a woodworker to show you the ropes of working with hand tools, or maybe take some kind of class, it would clear up some mysteries.

    Or you could try something like this instructional DVD - http://smartflix.com/store/video/2669/Hand-Tool-Techniques-with-Dav...

    But whatever method, Japanese, American, hand tools or power tools, the first thing you need to do is make a straight square board.

    With power tools, you would use a jointer, run it through on one edge to make that flat, then run it through on one face to make that flat and perpendicular to the flat edge. Then you can run it through the planer, table saw etc.

    With hand tools, you would do the same but use a long plane like a Stanley #5 jack plane.

    I cheat and use a benchtop belt sander and check it with a square or level. If you go this route, get a nice long one, about as long as the necks you're making. Mine is kind of short and I wish it was longer.
  • Dave Breault June 14, 2010 at 1:31pm
    If I understand correctly, you currently live in Japan. You are in the home country of the best hand saws in the world. Dozuki saws are great. They cut on the draw so you get more accurace have a fine kerf so less wasted wood and are scarry sharp. I have 4 that are my go to saws for all kinds of jobs that don't require the table saw or chop saw. Cutting on the draw is far safer when you start your cut, the saw has no tendency to jump on you.
  • Jonathan June 14, 2010 at 8:04am
    thanks for the advice ya'll. I don't have loads of time for my wood work so when I'm down ten hours with nothing to show for it, I get a little frustrated.

    @Randy:the broom handle sounds fun. the brooms here are quite different though; they're all made with bamboo sticks for handles. and I do have some good pieces of wood laying around but most of those will work better for one stringers.

    @chickenbonejohn: I'll probably go see my friend again but I'll also look for a good and accurate handsaw. I've been using a Japanese plane which is something that takes some getting used to. next time i visit the states i want to find a nice block plane. in your experiance did you find cutting through oak 1 1/2 in. thick for close to three feet accurate (and/or exhausting:^)?

    @Ben: actually, maybe i should have worked a more of a sweat but I would7ve probably had to plane that thing down to a toothpick to get rid of my beer belly. I've been wanting to make a lap steel, I might have some questions for you later on, yeah.
  • ChickenboneJohn June 14, 2010 at 6:59am
    All you need is a handsaw (forget the jigsaw, hopelessly inaccurate), a plane (with a sharp blade), and something to clamp the wood into whilst planing (a basic "workmate" fold-up type bench is just fine). A cheap electric planer might also help take the hard work out of it..these are the tools I've been using for years until I recently invested in a 6" benchtop planer and a 13" thicknesser (but then again I've got 1/2 ton of oak and mahogany to work my way through). You'll also need a decent steel straightedge and a square to check the accuracy of what you are doing.
  • Ben June 14, 2010 at 6:10am
    I think you've hit on the sentiment of just about every apartment dweller here. I'm sure if it were available in Japan then you'd have already thought to buy the wood already cut to those dimensions. I can't imagine there's a Home Depot or Lowes on every corner there. One thing that you didn't mention was how thick the wood is that you're trying to cut down. I did the jigsaw thing for a 6-string lap steel that I just finished. I took 3 oak boards that were a 1/4" thick. I drew the template that I wanted, and then did my very best to stay outside of that line. I then glued the 3 boards together, equalling 3/4". This is where is got not so fun. I used a hand plane (you know...the cheese grater type) and planed it down to the lines of the template. It was a lot of work, but now my triceps are pretty awesome. Its not quite perfect, but I figured for a lap steel, it didn't matter all that much. You can't tell from looking. Check it out on my page.
    I know this is basically what you did. I was just thinking that maybe the board is too thick. Otherwise, maybe consider a new jigsaw. They're not the most expensive tools.

    bens-6string-lapsteel?context=user

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