HI everyone I'm new here , so go easy on me . got the three string guitar mounted to the box and mostly finished just need some help with the wiring of the piezo and output and bridge placement on the box . The fretboard I cut out of oak 1/4x3 and followed the fretboard I got from stewart mac #1058-R rosewood GIBSON scale , used it as a pattern , didn't want to mess it up on the first build it was too pretty . I guessing it is a 24.562" scale ,but didn't cut anything off and have about an inch left until it makes contact with the box lid , does that affect my notes or does it just move the bridge closer the front of the box ? So i guess what I'm asking is what is the measurement for the bridge to the nut is it appro. 24 1/2 " ? And if it moves the bridge up closer to the front of the box , and the distance of the remaining wire from the tail peice increase , does that affect the sound(notes) . And about the piezo , if I wire them together i.e 2 or more do I just wire the two hots(red) together and two neutral(blacks) together . Or can i do a series and loop and connect the red and black together and use the red end from one and the black end from the other to connect to the output ? Where is the best placement for the piezo's to be placed and should I sandwhich them between the boards or use the thin layer of contact cement to stop the feed back . Okay I fib a lil' it looks like I need a lot of help . I have read a lot of info on the forum and see a lot of examples but I'm still a little lost . And the sad thing is I already thinking about another build and can't finish this one I'm working on, i guess you can say I already addicted and haven't really got my feet wet ! Any help or criticism would be be greatly accepted for my retarded questions , I'm a little slow sometimes ! Just kidding thanks for everyones help ...
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First piezos are easy,,, don't worry about polarity, doesnt make any difference. Assuming you have a piezo with wire leads already soldered, just solder on side to the tip tab and one side to the sleeve tab of a mono output jack. If your leads are too short (most cases) then you'll have to solder in a section of wire. Measure for this with the lid wide open (assuming you're building on the top, so that you won't break wires if/when you open the box later on. If you use two piezo's, the general wisdom is to write them in series (red to black between the two). The amount of extra wire makes no difference. And, don't worry about shielding, etc. Many builders are recommending some kind of "cushioning" material on the back side of the piezo (the side not in direct contact with the top). I use silicone caulk, others use a glob of hot glue, others use things like cutup mouse pad.
As far as length of neck/bridge placement.... your bridge has to be 24.5" from the nut, or it will be untunable.... your options are.... move the bridge "forward" or closer to the nut to achieve the distance..... or, cut off some wood from the tail end of the neck (assuming neck thru design), or (if you haven't cut the headstock yet, cut off some wood from the head end of the neck, and finally, just slide the fretboard down the neck until you achieve the desired nut to bridge placement... (this looks a little goofy, but is a legit solution.) The point is to keep the nut to bridge measure in line with the fret pattern. It is a good idea for new builders to design a "floating" bridge, like an eye bolt so that you can make adjustments to bridge location until you get the intonation right.
Thanks Matt for the help , the fretboard is a little longer , about an inch past the last fret . As for the piezos I'm still a little confused about the wiring and the connection to the output ... But thank you for the response .
Matt Towe said:
Ummm, yeah. I'm gonna get a running start and dive in.... No, the fretboard being short shouldn't be a problem. Next time check it's length before mounting the box. Nope, that won't change bridge placement. ( I cover that in a minute.) Moving the bridge does mess with sound ... but here is how you place it. 1- measure from the 12th fret to the nut. 2- set the bridge the same distance from the 12th fret as the nut is. 3-tune the 3rd string to whatever tuning. 4-play the 3rd string fretted at the 12th fret with the tuner on. It SHOULD be the same note ( just higher octave) as unfretted. 5-If it's not ( probably won't be) slide the bridge forward or back a bit, re-tune and play again. 6- repeat until the note is the same fretted and unfretted. 7-mark location 8- you can do this for the other 2 strings, you'll just have to angle the bridge and play with it. until it's as good as it can be.
About anything will work for the piezos. I prefer to put them under or as close to the bridge as possible. Finally , I just hot glue them to the underneath side of the box top.
Ummm, yeah. I'm gonna get a running start and dive in....
No, the fretboard being short shouldn't be a problem. Next time check it's length before mounting the box.
Nope, that won't change bridge placement. ( I cover that in a minute.)
Moving the bridge does mess with sound ... but here is how you place it.
1- measure from the 12th fret to the nut.
2- set the bridge the same distance from the 12th fret as the nut is.
3-tune the 3rd string to whatever tuning.
4-play the 3rd string fretted at the 12th fret with the tuner on. It SHOULD be the same note ( just higher octave) as unfretted.
5-If it's not ( probably won't be) slide the bridge forward or back a bit, re-tune and play again.
6- repeat until the note is the same fretted and unfretted.
7-mark location
8- you can do this for the other 2 strings, you'll just have to angle the bridge and play with it. until it's as good as it can be.
About anything will work for the piezos. I prefer to put them under or as close to the bridge as possible.
Finally , I just hot glue them to the underneath side of the box top.
Replies
First piezos are easy,,, don't worry about polarity, doesnt make any difference. Assuming you have a piezo with wire leads already soldered, just solder on side to the tip tab and one side to the sleeve tab of a mono output jack. If your leads are too short (most cases) then you'll have to solder in a section of wire. Measure for this with the lid wide open (assuming you're building on the top, so that you won't break wires if/when you open the box later on. If you use two piezo's, the general wisdom is to write them in series (red to black between the two). The amount of extra wire makes no difference. And, don't worry about shielding, etc. Many builders are recommending some kind of "cushioning" material on the back side of the piezo (the side not in direct contact with the top). I use silicone caulk, others use a glob of hot glue, others use things like cutup mouse pad.
As far as length of neck/bridge placement.... your bridge has to be 24.5" from the nut, or it will be untunable.... your options are.... move the bridge "forward" or closer to the nut to achieve the distance..... or, cut off some wood from the tail end of the neck (assuming neck thru design), or (if you haven't cut the headstock yet, cut off some wood from the head end of the neck, and finally, just slide the fretboard down the neck until you achieve the desired nut to bridge placement... (this looks a little goofy, but is a legit solution.) The point is to keep the nut to bridge measure in line with the fret pattern. It is a good idea for new builders to design a "floating" bridge, like an eye bolt so that you can make adjustments to bridge location until you get the intonation right.
let us know if you need more help...
the best,
Wichita Sam
Matt Towe said:
No, the fretboard being short shouldn't be a problem. Next time check it's length before mounting the box.
Nope, that won't change bridge placement. ( I cover that in a minute.)
Moving the bridge does mess with sound ... but here is how you place it.
1- measure from the 12th fret to the nut.
2- set the bridge the same distance from the 12th fret as the nut is.
3-tune the 3rd string to whatever tuning.
4-play the 3rd string fretted at the 12th fret with the tuner on. It SHOULD be the same note ( just higher octave) as unfretted.
5-If it's not ( probably won't be) slide the bridge forward or back a bit, re-tune and play again.
6- repeat until the note is the same fretted and unfretted.
7-mark location
8- you can do this for the other 2 strings, you'll just have to angle the bridge and play with it. until it's as good as it can be.
About anything will work for the piezos. I prefer to put them under or as close to the bridge as possible.
Finally , I just hot glue them to the underneath side of the box top.
Welcome and have fun wailin'!
Matt