Hi Mark. The other reason that I have heard for doing this is that if you need to remove frets you are less likely to tear at the wood as the fret comes out. I've not had to remove frets, but I have done what you describe using ebony for the fretboard. So far so good.
Mark Bliss said:
Another consideration, and something I have had good luck with and it seems particularly useful in harder woods - Radius the slot slightly (I use a little triangular file for this) to allow for the slight radius in the wire where the tang meets the underside of the top of the fret wire. The frets lie flatter and require less "dressing" when I do this.
My thinking is that the fretwire kind of "bounces back" slightly on install so you need a little extra room to allow it. (Best description I could come up with!)
Another consideration, and something I have had good luck with and it seems particularly useful in harder woods - Radius the slot slightly (I use a little triangular file for this) to allow for the slight radius in the wire where the tang meets the underside of the top of the fret wire. The frets lie flatter and require less "dressing" when I do this.
Thanks Jason....that was my thinking too. Did my first fretboard (insitu) on a newer build I did a couple of months ago. The medium fret wire tang length is .055", I set my depth at .056". Everything seemed to go perfect! Just have to dress them tomorrow.
Jason W. said:
Do it, imo. It's better to be a little too deep than a little too shallow. I know from experience that if you try to put a fret in a slot that's not deep enough, you'll only end up with a battered up fret that will pop out easy.
You can always come back later and put a little glue in the holes and sand them over to make them look pretty if you want.
Do it, imo. It's better to be a little too deep than a little too shallow. I know from experience that if you try to put a fret in a slot that's not deep enough, you'll only end up with a battered up fret that will pop out easy.
You can always come back later and put a little glue in the holes and sand them over to make them look pretty if you want.
Replies
Thanks Dan....I'll check it out!
Dan Sleep said:
Tracy,
Check out my fretting video, it may help answer some questions for you.
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/how-to-fret-a-neck
Thanks for all the info guys! Nothing like experience to help make the job easier.
Hi Mark. The other reason that I have heard for doing this is that if you need to remove frets you are less likely to tear at the wood as the fret comes out. I've not had to remove frets, but I have done what you describe using ebony for the fretboard. So far so good.
Mark Bliss said:
My thinking is that the fretwire kind of "bounces back" slightly on install so you need a little extra room to allow it. (Best description I could come up with!)
Another consideration, and something I have had good luck with and it seems particularly useful in harder woods - Radius the slot slightly (I use a little triangular file for this) to allow for the slight radius in the wire where the tang meets the underside of the top of the fret wire. The frets lie flatter and require less "dressing" when I do this.
Hope that helps!
Mark
Thanks Jason....that was my thinking too. Did my first fretboard (insitu) on a newer build I did a couple of months ago. The medium fret wire tang length is .055", I set my depth at .056". Everything seemed to go perfect! Just have to dress them tomorrow.
Jason W. said:
Do it, imo. It's better to be a little too deep than a little too shallow. I know from experience that if you try to put a fret in a slot that's not deep enough, you'll only end up with a battered up fret that will pop out easy.
You can always come back later and put a little glue in the holes and sand them over to make them look pretty if you want.