Hello -
Thanks for this cool site and all the helpful information.
I am in the process of finishing up my first cigar box build. I chose a tenor ukulele based on the size of the box I wanted to start with and the balance of the scale length and not to mention a shorter neck to screw up in the process :). I'm at best a novice woodworker and kind of made it up as I went. I never thought sawdust and super glue would work so well together! I've already started a three-string guitar build. At any rate, below are some pictures and questions.
I have chosen to use an eye bolt for the bridge that will rest right around the beginning of the word "rounds" on the box. The strings will then tie into the end of the neck more like a traditional cigar box guitar. Please see the next picture for the issue...
As you can see, it took me three tries to get the string spacing right :). I filled the old holes with sawdust and super glue but I'm wondering if there's any way to better conceal them? I am also wondering what would be best to insert into the holes to keep the strings from cutting into the wood. In reading here a lot of people seem to use rivet sleeves. I am kind of leaning in that direction but any other ideas are appreciated.
Just a couple more pictures. I "finished" the neck with gun stock oil and bees wax. Not sure about the spacing of the tuning pegs but we'll see once the strings I ordered arrive in a couple days.
Not one fret has popped out yet. A true miracle.
Thanks again and any advice is greatly appreciated.
matt
Replies
At any rate, those holes were cut with a drill and hole bit. I tested it first on a Padron box and thought for sure it would rip the wood up but the cut came out really clean and just needed some light sanding.
Chester, good to know about the string stretch! Hopefully the strings will come today.
Another thing about uke strings...there's really no need to leave slack in the string before you start winding (like with a steel string) the nylon will stretch a lot and you'll still get 3 or so windings on the peg even if you start winding with the string taught.
The tuners should work ok, but friction tuners are a lot more finicky than geared tuners. As you get closer to pitch the tiniest turn can change a lot so be patient. Make sure to keep a screwdriver handy as you'll probably need to tighten the screw at the back of the tuner to keep it from slipping. Oh, and expect the strings to continue to stretch for a day or two. You'll probably need to retune it everytime you pick it up for a little while.
@Chester - those beads look like a great idea. Never would have thought about that. and thanks for the alternate tuning suggestion
@Wes - Thanks for the toothpick tip. I'll probably go that route since recapping the end would be a lot of work.
@Hip Bone - yeah, I knew those tuners have mixed reviews. Since I won't be using steel strings I'm hoping they will hold but we'll see when the strings come in tomorrow.
matt
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/build-1-d?context=user
Drill them out again and fill it with toothpicks. Cut flush and finish. Should be less visible. OR veneer over it all and drill in the good holes again.
I am also wondering what would be best to insert into the holes to keep the strings from cutting into the wood.
I use 1/8" wide pop rived sleves. drill 1/8" holes and insert (remove the nail first) sleves in. Voila!
Not one fret has popped out yet. A true miracle.
Not bad for a first go! My first stunk on ice.
-WY
Here's my suggestions:
If you're using ukulele strings, you shouldn't have to worry about them cutting into the wood. The tension on uke strings is much less than steel strings. Once you have it strung up, if the strings feel too loose to you or the uke sounds a bit too quiet, you can tune up from GCEA to ADF#B and that should give you a bit more volume. You might want to tie an extra large knot in the ends so they don't pull through or you can tie them on to small beads. Check out this photo:
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/tailpice-of-cakepanjolele?conte...
You could just leave the plugged holes, but if you want to cover them up, you could cut a slice off of the top (and the bottom) and glue on a cap of another piece of wood. If you do one side and then the other you can use your existing holes to guide the drill bit into the one side and then the other.