Hi All!
I wanted to understand what do you guys use to polish your guitar? I wanted to take into account all alternatives. I have a few boxes which have paper on top of the wood , so is there any special care you need to take , or do you not touch the sound box at all ?
On a side note , is there a way to get the "SMOKING KILLS" etc stickers off without destroying whats's underneath? Or do you guys just work around it ? I could use some ideas.
Cheers!
Replies
My two favorite combinations right now are Danish Oil-with stain included in the oil or without-and Deft spay shellac.
If it's a wooden both i'll polish all surfaces inside and out for looks and protection, let dry and finish with the shellac. If it's a paper covered wooden box i'll coat the insides with oil to protect it from weathering/drying out over the years, then spray the outside. If I use a masonite or plastic box (if it passes my 'sound check' i'll ose it) then Shellac inside and out to seal it up. If i'm using a metal tin, i'll gently clean any corrosion, leave any originak paint intact and use several ultra-thin coats of Rustoleum Clear-coat.
Deft spray lacquer, been using it forever. Dries fast, hard finish. Great for protecting from the elements. I use it on everything I create!
I brush on a couple coats of Zinnser Sealcoat shellac right over the paper, wood, etc. It has a nice semigloss finish.
The other advantage is that shellac is much more non toxic than other types of finishes. I don't need to go outside to use it. Zinnser also makes a spray can version of their regular shellac (I would, however, use any kind of spray anything outside).
Cheers guys! Nearly kitted to go.... :)
Slightly OT question that is not really deserving of it's own thread:
Can you paint over the paper without any real problems?
Haven't tried painting over the paper, but as most of the paper labels are embossed and the tapes tent to have edges that aren't always stuck down well, I would think that all the imperfections would show through.
My mother suggested sealing the paper before painting it.
So, maybe that would help with that?
I prefer clear spray lacquer. It dries fast and several light coats seem to give a nice finish. Protects the paper labels and brings out the color and grain in the wood. If you don't want a high gloss finish, you can buff the gloss away with fine steel wool. Haven't had any problems removing any labels as so far the boxes I've built have been old enough not to have any, of if they did they were bare wood boxes and the labels pulled off easily.
I've coated boxes with oil based Minwax polyurethane and it didn't damage the paper. I went around the box and found any unstuck corners, etc. and glued them back down before applying the clear coat. I just wish it went on thicker. I put on about 3 coats.
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