Do any of you or have any of you varnished over the cigar box labels to help protect them? I think I'd like to pit a finish over some, but not sure how it well effect the labels.
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I have used thinned out Elmers painted on to seal some older boxes that had the trim coming up
It also gives it a glossy finish that seems to be fairly durable
I've used clear satin or gloss spray acrylic from Krylon with good results. I will NOT spray it on a neck again though, too grippy. I would think most any clear coating will work OK. Varish or shellac may be cool cause you could add some tint to make it look aged.I'm sure someone here knows how to make it crackle for a vintage look too.
I had problems with poly sticking to the stickers and not the box. So now I use krylon clear acrylic on my boxes to help hold the stickers on. I put a few real light coats before soaking it to avoid stains on the stickers.when the stickers come loose I find the elmers to be the best way. Superglue has failed me in those areas.When I do a wooden box that already has some type of finish on it. i just leave it alone and finish the neck only.
Good thinking on the labels. Ive had some get oily looking spots on em. also had some labels go almost clear.
Ooooo French Polish is a VERY nice method of producing a glass finish using shellac. Its a pain to master but when you do, its beautiful. IT takes a long time to apply and quite a good touch.
You apply a base (or body) coat of shellac (unwaxed and non-commercial grade) to the wood as a seal coat. Once dry and semi-cured (takes a day or two), you start to apply shellac using a pad. This is done in layers and layers of thin applications where the pad (muneca) is lightly damp. Olive oil is applied to the pad as well as a lubricant since the shellac can be very sticky. Layers are applied in 3-4 hour 'sessions'. The process might take a few days to weeks depending on the result desired. I liken the technique to shining shoes with wax and cloth.
Once hard (48-72 hrs) the finish can be buffed further with buffing compound.
If done properly, the result is a very high gloss finish that is unsurpassed BUT if you are in a rush, fugettaboutit. Its great and last a long time but very hard to control unless you know what to do.
I have been using elmer's white glue to stick down any peeling edges, and then Polycrylic water based polyurethane on the boxes and labels. Works great to keep them from pulling up and gives everything a nice hard to scratch finish. Just have to go light coats and watch for runs.
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It also gives it a glossy finish that seems to be fairly durable
Good thinking on the labels. Ive had some get oily looking spots on em. also had some labels go almost clear.
-WY
You apply a base (or body) coat of shellac (unwaxed and non-commercial grade) to the wood as a seal coat. Once dry and semi-cured (takes a day or two), you start to apply shellac using a pad. This is done in layers and layers of thin applications where the pad (muneca) is lightly damp. Olive oil is applied to the pad as well as a lubricant since the shellac can be very sticky. Layers are applied in 3-4 hour 'sessions'. The process might take a few days to weeks depending on the result desired. I liken the technique to shining shoes with wax and cloth.
Once hard (48-72 hrs) the finish can be buffed further with buffing compound.
If done properly, the result is a very high gloss finish that is unsurpassed BUT if you are in a rush, fugettaboutit. Its great and last a long time but very hard to control unless you know what to do.
Here is a great link to a site that taught me.
-WY
Paul Doug said:
What is ze "French Polish?" Mon Dieu!
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Finishes_and_solvent...
Wes Yates said:
Wes Yates said:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=8794&s...
http://www.lowes.com/pd_45814-1075-010-13_0_?productId=3033767&...$Ntt=deft$y=0$x=0
-WY
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