I finished my first CBG, I know I know, I promised pics, still need to snap some. I did a lot of little corrections here and there to get it right, which I figured out on my own before I looked up on here, and most people did it a little different then I. Anyhow, what I wanted to ask was, I followed the directions pretty much exactly (with the poplar neck) and I tuned to a G with the correct strings, and my neck is bowing. Is this just par for the course and it is what it is?
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Easy enough to pop in a commercial or homemade truss rod unit , eliminating the need for any bowing concerns... On our slide only CBG, no frets, we got a slight bow , but was of no concern ... To get consistent neck relief and playability on fretted necks , a truss rod of some sort is almost mandatory ... Our Fav. Truss rod is the 2 way adjustable TR from Stew Mac... Cheap insurance for good action over a long period of time ... and with a truss rod , the wood choice is not so critical , but I'd still stick to the harder denser woods for better sustain and longevity ...
Interestingly enough, I did have a little bit of bow in the neck this time -- but only in the box where I made the lid and sound recesses. I usually reinforce that area which this time I didn't. I wound up putting an extra 1/2" strip on the back (of the neck inside the box) and that greatly increased its strength.
I also did not put a fretboard on this time and notice it slightly bows. Nothing big tho.
I think if you are going to use poplar (and I do suggest that ONLY if you know that this is a softer wood), follow Mort's suggestions and test the wood. Look at the grain. Make sure it's the strongest piece in the bin. Also think about using a 1/8"x1/2" bar as a truss rod.
Else use a harder wood -- maple, oak (tho I really don't like the oak grain) or even ash.
Wes Yates said:
Mort, that's an interesting thought. I have been putting on fretboards and that being, I've had no issues. I've also used the 1/8"x1/2" bar as a truss rod. Hmmmm. I'm making a fretless/fretboardless one now. I'll see what happens. Good suggestion. -Wes
Mortimer Snerd said:
Not all boards from the lumbar yard, are neck material, Poplar is fine, did you test it first to find it's week side vs. it's stronger side? Grain direction has allot to do with how strong any board will be. Did you put the natural bow in the board to work to your advantage so it will not do what you are describing? I am guessing that your neck should have been flopped around, or try a different piece of Poplar, test them and look them over first at the lumber yard before buying.
Mort, that's an interesting thought. I have been putting on fretboards and that being, I've had no issues. I've also used the 1/8"x1/2" bar as a truss rod. Hmmmm. I'm making a fretless/fretboardless one now. I'll see what happens. Good suggestion.
-Wes
Mortimer Snerd said:
Not all boards from the lumbar yard, are neck material, Poplar is fine, did you test it first to find it's week side vs. it's stronger side? Grain direction has allot to do with how strong any board will be. Did you put the natural bow in the board to work to your advantage so it will not do what you are describing? I am guessing that your neck should have been flopped around, or try a different piece of Poplar, test them and look them over first at the lumber yard before buying.
My first one was 21" from nut to bridge, and it warped a bunch, as did one of the next ones that was poplar and 19". Now I build mostly 15" or 17" and I have no warping at all anymore. But I think most builders are using 23-25.5" scale length.
That said, I am also gluing a 1/4" fingerboard on the top of the neck, and I am sure that is helping.
Jonathan said:
Well in the directions it said to use a 3 foot piece, what do most use?
Diane said:
Another thing, the longer the neck is, the more likely it is to bow.
hey , dont know if this helps, i make lots of poplar necks.....i prefer to use (out of a bronze acoustic 12 set or electric set of 10's) the A, G, and high E. ive never had a problem in A or G......if it persists to bow. and you love the axe....i'd throw some nylons on it so it plays well.....cheers and good luck!
Of the common hardware-store woods, poplar is easily the most flexible. Maple is stiffer, and oak is easily the stiffest.
I experienced bowing with my first, simple CBG. Since then, I've used oak almost exclusively. A standard 1 X 2 with an added 1/4 X 2 glued on for a fretboard seems to be quite immune to flexing with four strings.
On my mandola, which has to resist 8 strings, I used two pieces of maple with a 1/4" piece of oak in the center. (aligned vertically) This has resisted warping completely, but it's a very short neck as well.
Replies
I also did not put a fretboard on this time and notice it slightly bows. Nothing big tho.
I think if you are going to use poplar (and I do suggest that ONLY if you know that this is a softer wood), follow Mort's suggestions and test the wood. Look at the grain. Make sure it's the strongest piece in the bin. Also think about using a 1/8"x1/2" bar as a truss rod.
Else use a harder wood -- maple, oak (tho I really don't like the oak grain) or even ash.
Wes Yates said:
026.JPG
-Wes
Mortimer Snerd said:
That said, I am also gluing a 1/4" fingerboard on the top of the neck, and I am sure that is helping.
Jonathan said:
I experienced bowing with my first, simple CBG. Since then, I've used oak almost exclusively. A standard 1 X 2 with an added 1/4 X 2 glued on for a fretboard seems to be quite immune to flexing with four strings.
On my mandola, which has to resist 8 strings, I used two pieces of maple with a 1/4" piece of oak in the center. (aligned vertically) This has resisted warping completely, but it's a very short neck as well.
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