Another thing that I would like to hear from everybody about is the difference between using a bolt bridge and a bone or other material bridge. I’m coming from the school that used bolts for the nuts and the bridges but the other day Taff suggested to me that a bone bridge can make a big difference. So I’d like to hear your thoughts on that so I can learn more about the differences. Just hoping to tap in to all the things you’ve all learned from making so many CBGs. Thanks.
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Thanks for the input, John. I just finished one with a wood/plastic saddle and a bolt nut and it sounds smoking. Experimentation probably is the best way to figure it all out. I just hate to spend a lot of time and effort reinventing the wheel when so many people have made so many more guitars than I have and learned so much through their Experience. A lot of times the things people share with me or things I might not of thought of in 100 years!
You and Uncle John hit the nail on the head for me. I'm a curious critter and have to try things, but I usually do so after consulting those who have the experience. I, like John, have to try new things. In fact, after 15 builds, (tiny collection), an MDF box with a metal screw nut and saddle is my best sounding electric. I have recently been trying hardwood bridges with good results. I swapped out a bolt for a bridge I made of a slice of mahogany sandwiched between two small blocks of iroko one one of my acoustic builds. The mahogany slice served as the saddle. The difference was striking. It went from sounding good, roughly my third best to my best sounding acoustic. Your mileage may vary. As they say here quite regularly, "There aren't any stinking rules."
Interesting. All the old school thought is/was bone nuts, real wood - not plywood and definitely not pressed cardboard or other such. And on the real wood- tone woods such as sitka spruce and cedar. The old saying was/is 'If it ain't wood it ain't good.'
My experience in recent years is to throw all that theory away and try new things. I've heard bolt bridges and nuts sound fantastic - including using them on a wreck of an old tenor guitar I saved CBG style. I've had pressed paper box CBGs sound way better than 'the should have'. I have been surprised and pleased at MDF.
And on the other hand, there have been times where I used the 'good stuff - ('good' woods' bone or Corian) and been disappointed.
I really like bolts for nuts on home made guitars. They seem to reduce problems like string hop, they are fairly easy to do and they sound good. In fact, I have a build from spring that used a zero fret nut - a fret for the nut. It has never been quite right and I think this week I will convert it to a coarse thread screw for the nut.
Thanks for the tip. will need to remember this.
This is one of the reasons that I use floating bridges in my builds. So easy to change out. I try to go through and inspect and tweak my gits once a year and sometimes I try a different bridge/saddle arrangement to try to get more sound, better tone, or just basically to screw around with it. They are tremendously fun to experiment with and cost next to nothing if you build them out of scrap wood and
different metal rods. I have yet to try bone, but hope to soon.
Ron,
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I think your best bet is to try them out & judge for yourself?