Thanks Richard. I really appreciate the nice comments. Never tried maple, but it should be fun. I always sand as smooth as possible first to help eliminate the "drag" when going over the grain. I also like to practice onscraps of the same wood before "going for it" on the selected piece.
The headstock is basically cut in half, flipped over and then glued onto the back. The area of the neck coming away from the fretboard, and the fretboard itself, are both cut at a 45 degree angle beforehand. Same for the piece that gets glued onto the back. Then a whole lot of sanding to get the angles smooth and make it look nice. It's really just a slight variation of Bill Jehle's method on his instructional DVD. They do look nice, but they are a pain in the a*% to do using only hand tools as I do.
Hey Tom, really nice work. I really like the wood burning art. I got me a iron and tips and have been practicing on pine. Got any tips for when I start on maple? And I was wondering what method you use to cut the thickness of your headstock for the tuners?
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The headstock is basically cut in half, flipped over and then glued onto the back. The area of the neck coming away from the fretboard, and the fretboard itself, are both cut at a 45 degree angle beforehand. Same for the piece that gets glued onto the back. Then a whole lot of sanding to get the angles smooth and make it look nice. It's really just a slight variation of Bill Jehle's method on his instructional DVD. They do look nice, but they are a pain in the a*% to do using only hand tools as I do.