Well, I just bought a little (4"x 8" x 2") battery powered Broadcast and Shortwave receiver on Ebay to use for a little amp for my License Plate Guitar.
It belonged to a 95 year old lady in Georgia who passed away.
The radio is working, and seems to be complete except for the antenna.
I'm not sure if it has a phono jack or not- if not I want to wire one with a switch so all the bands work, but I'd like to do it without putting any holes in the radio!
Also I am planning on replacing the capacitors, so I am trying to find a schematic for it. I joined antiqueradios.com and posted there too.
Any help will be appreciated! Haven't done any electronics since grade 9!
These pictures and this info are from radiomuseum.org:
For model Silvertone 3217 Order=57H 3217, Sears, Roebuck & Co.; Chicago (IL):
Scan from catalog Sears, Roebuck, 1962, page 1245.
Country: United States of America (USA)
Manufacturer / Brand: Sears, Roebuck & Co.; Chicago (IL)
Brand
Silvertone
Year: 1962 Type: Broadcast Receiver - or past WW2 Tuner
Semiconductors (the count is only for transistors) 8:
Principle Super-Heterodyne (Super in general)
Wave bands Broadcast and Short Wave (SW).
Details
Power type and voltage Dry Batteries
Loudspeaker Permanent Magnet Dynamic (PDyn) Loudspeaker (moving coil) / Ø 2.75 inch = 7 cm
Power out
from Radiomuseum.org Model: Silvertone 3217 Order=57H 3217 - Sears, Roebuck & Co.; Chicago
Material Modern plastics (no Bakelite or Catalin)
Shape Very small Portable or Pocket-Set (Handheld) < 8 inch.
Dimensions (WHD) 8 x 4 x 2 inch / 203 x 102 x 51 mm
Price in first year of sale 32.95 $
Literature/Schematics (2) Sears, Roebuck Catalogs (Silvertone) (Fall/Winter 1962, page 1245.)
Model page created by Noemi Erb. See "Data change" for further contributors.
Hi Farmer Ted- according to the Sams it is 6v (4 x 1 1/2v B cells)- not sure what size that would be, I'm thinking AA because of the size of the radio.
It must have been an expensive radio in it's day at $32.95, no money down, and $5.00 monthly payments!
Radio museum is a great resource for info. The actual voltage requirement is not included, unfortunately. Those used dry cells. But an alkaline alternative will do fine if you can match voltages. I believe the "alignment" has to do with the phase inverting diodes that affect the radio signal to a more usable wave before it passes through the pre amp stage of the circuit.
Having a "flying" cord... clamped to the chassis (hole drilled?) with a female 1/4" phono plug available for your guitar hanging in the rear cabinet, will give you the ease of "plug'in up", the switch part could be had with a 3rd contact in the female 1/4" phono plug. The only issue is that this 3rd contact is available with a logic state of "grounded" with no plug inserted, and un-grounded with the male inserted. That tells me that a relay will be doing the "mode switch" switching. Another possibility that I would prefer is to install another rotary switch with an additional position, and then chassis mount the female 1/4" phono plug with of course coax, that is IF you don't already have an AUX input. antiqueradio.com is a valuable resource, excellent choice.
The radio should receive an alignment at some point, so you can enjoy it as it should be. I would not plug it in until you have the newer 3 wire grounding power cord & the power supply caps replaced. Oh, yes, you'll need a good bench technician as well. Good luck, I'm sure it will sound great, even better some "low Fi" can't hurt as well. Even some bias work on the pre-amp section with a 2 pole rotary switch to work that 40"s tone up a little....thats what I specialize in!
Monterey > Doug ChristensenApril 2, 2015 at 12:56am
Hi Doug, thanks, but what exactly though is an alignment?
hTwo holes (sorry, but necessary). One for switch, one for jack. Find wire that runs from tuner section to on/off volume pot. Cut that wire and connect the tuner side of that wire to one side of a spdt on/on switch. Connect the positive lead from jack to other side of switch. Middle post of switch connect to the remaining tuner section lead toward on/off volume. Remember to connect jack negative to radio ground.
Now you have a unit that still operates as a radio, and with flick of switch, its a guitar amp.
Monterey > Scott aka Farmer TedApril 1, 2015 at 4:31pm
Hi, yes, thank- you, that's exactly what I want! I was just reading your thread about your 1964 Philips actually, and was going to message you.
I guess two holes ain't bad, everything will work properly! Hopefully the impedance will be matched from what I've been reading, so it sounds good with the guitar. I'll just be using one neck "Powered By Lace" single coil pick- up.
The radio is still on it's way from Georgia, can't wait for it to get here so I can work on it.
Can still pick up 5 AM stations in the truck in Winnipeg, not sure if they're Canadian or US. In the '80's you could pick up lots of AM stations at night when it wasn't overcast- I'll have to try that again.
Moved back to this God- forsaken place in January 5 years ago from between Charlottetown and Moncton- it's way better at the East Coast!
Replies
For model Silvertone 3217 Order=57H 3217, Sears, Roebuck & Co.; Chicago (IL):
Scan from catalog Sears, Roebuck, 1962, page 1245.
Country: United States of America (USA)
Manufacturer / Brand: Sears, Roebuck & Co.; Chicago (IL)
Brand
Silvertone
Year: 1962 Type: Broadcast Receiver - or past WW2 Tuner
Semiconductors (the count is only for transistors) 8:
Principle Super-Heterodyne (Super in general)
Wave bands Broadcast and Short Wave (SW).
Details
Power type and voltage Dry Batteries
Loudspeaker Permanent Magnet Dynamic (PDyn) Loudspeaker (moving coil) / Ø 2.75 inch = 7 cm
Power out
from Radiomuseum.org Model: Silvertone 3217 Order=57H 3217 - Sears, Roebuck & Co.; Chicago
Material Modern plastics (no Bakelite or Catalin)
Shape Very small Portable or Pocket-Set (Handheld) < 8 inch.
Dimensions (WHD) 8 x 4 x 2 inch / 203 x 102 x 51 mm
Price in first year of sale 32.95 $
Literature/Schematics (2) Sears, Roebuck Catalogs (Silvertone) (Fall/Winter 1962, page 1245.)
Model page created by Noemi Erb. See "Data change" for further contributors.
silvertone_3217_order_57h_3217_1650952.jpg
silvertone_3217_order_57h_3217_1650956.jpg
silvertone_3217_order_57h_3217_1650954.jpg
It must have been an expensive radio in it's day at $32.95, no money down, and $5.00 monthly payments!
There ya go, 4 AA batteries, 1.5v each gives the 6v power source, excellent
1015-sml.gif
1015.pdf
Radio museum is a great resource for info. The actual voltage requirement is not included, unfortunately. Those used dry cells. But an alkaline alternative will do fine if you can match voltages. I believe the "alignment" has to do with the phase inverting diodes that affect the radio signal to a more usable wave before it passes through the pre amp stage of the circuit.
Monteray,
Having a "flying" cord... clamped to the chassis (hole drilled?) with a female 1/4" phono plug available for your guitar hanging in the rear cabinet, will give you the ease of "plug'in up", the switch part could be had with a 3rd contact in the female 1/4" phono plug. The only issue is that this 3rd contact is available with a logic state of "grounded" with no plug inserted, and un-grounded with the male inserted. That tells me that a relay will be doing the "mode switch" switching. Another possibility that I would prefer is to install another rotary switch with an additional position, and then chassis mount the female 1/4" phono plug with of course coax, that is IF you don't already have an AUX input. antiqueradio.com is a valuable resource, excellent choice.
The radio should receive an alignment at some point, so you can enjoy it as it should be. I would not plug it in until you have the newer 3 wire grounding power cord & the power supply caps replaced. Oh, yes, you'll need a good bench technician as well. Good luck, I'm sure it will sound great, even better some "low Fi" can't hurt as well. Even some bias work on the pre-amp section with a 2 pole rotary switch to work that 40"s tone up a little....thats what I specialize in!
hTwo holes (sorry, but necessary). One for switch, one for jack. Find wire that runs from tuner section to on/off volume pot. Cut that wire and connect the tuner side of that wire to one side of a spdt on/on switch. Connect the positive lead from jack to other side of switch. Middle post of switch connect to the remaining tuner section lead toward on/off volume. Remember to connect jack negative to radio ground.
Now you have a unit that still operates as a radio, and with flick of switch, its a guitar amp.
I guess two holes ain't bad, everything will work properly! Hopefully the impedance will be matched from what I've been reading, so it sounds good with the guitar. I'll just be using one neck "Powered By Lace" single coil pick- up.
The radio is still on it's way from Georgia, can't wait for it to get here so I can work on it.
Can still pick up 5 AM stations in the truck in Winnipeg, not sure if they're Canadian or US. In the '80's you could pick up lots of AM stations at night when it wasn't overcast- I'll have to try that again.
Moved back to this God- forsaken place in January 5 years ago from between Charlottetown and Moncton- it's way better at the East Coast!
Winnipeg? Ugh. Lol. I can get a couple US am stations in New York. My thread on the 64 Phillips has a diagram showing what had described.
-
1
-
2
of 2 Next