Posted by John Sims on December 30, 2008 at 6:41pm
There are many ways to install frets on a CBG. Some CBG makers use toothpics, some use regular tang type guitar frets installed in a slotted fret board or directly into the neck material, and some use a wood burning tool as a position marker on slide type CBG's. You're mind is the limit!
I have a thing for using quality finishing nails. You can find them in just about every size, quality and also in brass, steel or even stainless. Finishing nails give you the look of a rustic home made CBG without going toward the standard guitar fret look.
Here is the way that I prefer to install them...
On this particular CBG, I used brass finishing nails with the heads cut off glued directly to an Oak neck. After measuring the width of your neck, cut the nails off slightly larger with a strong pair of nippers. Then, grind them down using a grinder to just a tad bit larger than the proper length. You want the frets extending past the sides of the neck, but just slightly.
After marking the fret positions on the neck or fret board, cut straight, shallow slots with a fine toothed hacksaw blade. A hacksaw blade is just about the right width for most finishing nails which are long enough to span a 3 to 5 string neck. You can make the cuts shallow or deep, so that the fret sits high or low. It's a preference that must be decided upon.
I finish the slot off with a small round rat tail or a large nut file. I then glue them into the slot with strong epoxy type glue. The best fret glue I have found is golf club shaft glue, which is very strong, and available at Golfsmith or at Golf Galaxy. (Yes, I make custom golf clubs too!)
After the glue dries, you can file the edges to about 30 to 40 degrees using either a belt sander or a file. I use the belt sander method, but this method does have a tendancy to chew up belts pretty quickly due to the rough and sharp edges of the frets extending past the sides of the neck. You can also ruin the edge of a nice neck or fret board very easily and quickly.
Another method is to use a fine file, and file each side of each individual fret which takes alot of time. Another way is to mount a file edgewise in a piece of wood a bit longer than the file, at the angle in which you want the edges of the frets to be (usually 30-40 degrees). You can then file the fret edges down by stroking the board mounted file lengthwise along the neck.
By Dragon
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I posted these on a forum thread. These are jigs and a saw I use with a modification that includes a depth gauge. The jig is scraps of wood left over and some dowel made a removable jig to cut square frets with. I also looked at StewMacs saw and decided to make an adjustable depth gauge. Once the guide reaches the top of the jig, the cut should be the depth. Nice and even. I just need some 1/8" screws to hold the depth gauge with.
thats such a great concept. One of the reasons I have put off attempting to build a CGB is that with limited tools and no workshop making the fretboard seemed beyond me. i.e. not getting the right depth for the frets, what type of glue etc... you have answered them all....
I took a class that had us ink the tops of the frets with a sharpie type marker and hit the fretboard lengthwise with a long flat fine file. Low frets stay black, high ones show bright metal. Repeat as needed.
BTW, The classes were help in Chicago and I can recomend them highly (some interesting custom builds too). .
John Sims said:
One way I use is to cut your grooves and then file them to the correct depth, but don't glue them in. Then, I use a straight edge and lay it across the frets and the neck lengthwise, and you'll easily be able to see which frets are needing more filing in the groove portion, and which frets are filed too low, which means that you'll have to file the rest of the fret channels/grooves a bit lower, or add more glue (sometimes mixed with sawdust that matches the neck wood) under the fret...
C. B. Gitty said:
The one time I tried using nails on a one-string diddleybow/canjo, I had issues with the frets/nails being at slightly different heights, which caused some of the frets to buzz. Have you run into this? Is the only way around it using extreme care when cutting the grooves they rest in?
The last two necks me and my son made used 1/16" brass rod, glued into slots cut w/hack saw blade and then filed to shape. First individually, and then by just using a flat file to shape the ends together. I used titebond wood glue, clamped for 24 hrs. My son used gel super glue, clamped for 30 min. On both, we roughed up the "back" side of the rod to give the rods some tooth for the glue. They both have survived the vibrations of the final finishing sander on the necks w/o coming loose, so I think they will stay put. Extra fine steel wool will give them a nice bright shine if that is what you want. We used masking tape on the edges of the neck to keep the glue from seeping out of the slots, and applied the wood glue w/a hypodermic needle ( I give the dog allergy shots at home,yuk!). The gel ca came in a pinpoint dispenser that worked fine too. Go easy with the glue. Check the pics in my profile if you want.
A fret end file tool can be made from a 2”x 4” block of wood. One edge is cut at a 30-degree angle, which is supposedly standard for finishing up the fret edges. I have read that some luthiers use as low as a 15 degree angle. Three to five wood screws with decent sized washers are then used to attach the file to the edge of the 2 X 4 that was angled. For a little extra rigidity, you can use hot melt glue along the length of the file, or even drill holes in the file and screw it directly to the wood block.
It holds up very well on the plated nails. Specialty hardware shops have real brass, but hard to find. I order them online. o problems yet, but with much use, the wear and tear would compliment any CBG!
One way I use is to cut your grooves and then file them to the correct depth, but don't glue them in. Then, I use a straight edge and lay it across the frets and the neck lengthwise, and you'll easily be able to see which frets are needing more filing in the groove portion, and which frets are filed too low, which means that you'll have to file the rest of the fret channels/grooves a bit lower, or add more glue (sometimes mixed with sawdust that matches the neck wood) under the fret...
C. B. Gitty said:
The one time I tried using nails on a one-string diddleybow/canjo, I had issues with the frets/nails being at slightly different heights, which caused some of the frets to buzz. Have you run into this? Is the only way around it using extreme care when cutting the grooves they rest in?
A fret end file tool can be made from a 2”x 4” block of wood. One edge is cut at a 30-degree angle, which is supposedly standard for finishing up the fret edges. I have read that some luthiers use as low as a 15 degree angle. Three to five wood screws with decent sized washers are then used to attach the file to the edge of the 2 X 4 that was angled. For a little extra rigidity, you can use hot melt glue along the length of the file, or even drill holes in the file and screw it directly to the wood block.
I have been using copper wire using almost exactly the same technique; looks like those brass finishing nails would be easier to work with; already straight and all....
You straighten the copper wire (this is the "ground" wire from standard house 3-conductor wire) by stripping out 6-8 feet and stretching it slightly. I clamp one end in a vise and wrap the other around a piece of pipe. You pull until you feel a slight "give" and viola!, it's almost perfectly straight.
I mark out the fret positions and then use a carbide hacksaw blade to cut the shallow slots; the rounded blade is almost the same profile as the wire.
I use JB Weld two-part epoxy, applied with a very pointed toothpick. Holds very well. I too tried superglue but it wouldn't bond to the metal.
It is tedious to get all the slots the same depth; you can use a short straightedge to compare between three-four frets at a time.
I like to use the metal from windshield wiper inserts for fretwire when I'm not using real fretwire.
The refil packs cost about $3, contain one blade with 2 - 2.25' stainless steel strips, which is enough for a couple guitars. Or just find some used ones, they're just fine too.
I take a hobby razor saw and use double-stick tape to tape a depth stop[square 1/4" or 3/8" scrap] to each side of the blade, which allows the blade to only penetrate about half the width of the steel from the wiper blades. This will ensure each slot is the exact same depth, and also helps to make the cuts perpendicular to the fingerboard surface. Two sets of locking pliers clamped right next to each other on the wiper insert and the bent opposite directions will cause the insert to snap with a nice square edge. Lay out your neck, cut all your slots using the razor saw with depth stops. You will probablly find that the razor saw is much thinner than the wiper inserts. After you've cut all your slots, use either a square needle file or a hacksaw blade to widen the slots, being careful not to make them any deeper.
A toothpick will serve to get some epoxy in to the slots, then use a small hammer to tap the pre-cut wiperblade metal in to the slots.
Replies
saw I use with a modification that includes a depth gauge. The jig is scraps of wood left over and some dowel made a removable jig to cut square frets with. I also looked at StewMacs saw and decided to make an adjustable depth gauge. Once the guide reaches the top of the jig, the cut should be the depth. Nice and even. I just need some 1/8" screws to hold the depth gauge with.
BTW, The classes were help in Chicago and I can recomend them highly (some interesting custom builds too). .
John Sims said:
John Sims said:
John Sims said:
C. B. Gitty said:
You straighten the copper wire (this is the "ground" wire from standard house 3-conductor wire) by stripping out 6-8 feet and stretching it slightly. I clamp one end in a vise and wrap the other around a piece of pipe. You pull until you feel a slight "give" and viola!, it's almost perfectly straight.
I mark out the fret positions and then use a carbide hacksaw blade to cut the shallow slots; the rounded blade is almost the same profile as the wire.
I use JB Weld two-part epoxy, applied with a very pointed toothpick. Holds very well. I too tried superglue but it wouldn't bond to the metal.
It is tedious to get all the slots the same depth; you can use a short straightedge to compare between three-four frets at a time.
The refil packs cost about $3, contain one blade with 2 - 2.25' stainless steel strips, which is enough for a couple guitars. Or just find some used ones, they're just fine too.
I take a hobby razor saw and use double-stick tape to tape a depth stop[square 1/4" or 3/8" scrap] to each side of the blade, which allows the blade to only penetrate about half the width of the steel from the wiper blades. This will ensure each slot is the exact same depth, and also helps to make the cuts perpendicular to the fingerboard surface. Two sets of locking pliers clamped right next to each other on the wiper insert and the bent opposite directions will cause the insert to snap with a nice square edge. Lay out your neck, cut all your slots using the razor saw with depth stops. You will probablly find that the razor saw is much thinner than the wiper inserts. After you've cut all your slots, use either a square needle file or a hacksaw blade to widen the slots, being careful not to make them any deeper.
A toothpick will serve to get some epoxy in to the slots, then use a small hammer to tap the pre-cut wiperblade metal in to the slots.
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