I had the single coil neck pickup on my license plate guitar mounted on the soundboard. However, because of the thickness of the soundboard combined with a support strut underneath it, the pickup was maxed out in the raised position maybe 1/4" from the strings.
I figured the solution was to make a piece of wood the height of the fretboard to mount the pickup in, and file out below it so it could come down as far as necessary.
Thought it should work, but now I have the opposite problem-.in its lowest position the pickup is too high- ie: the strings hit it when you fret past the 12th.fret.
Will it work to use longer adjusting bolts for the pickup, or will that work with the springs?
Also, is it possible to try changing the bolts one at a time without taking the pickup out, or will it come apart on me? I can take the pickup out to change the bolts, but it's a real pain in the ass because I have to take the strings off
Well, using longer bolts worked! I found a couple just over 1/8" longer on a recepticle. They're the 2 used for screwing the recepticle to the box.
Also I changed them one at a time without taking the pickup out by tightening them both up all the way, and then changing them one at a time- it kept the springs compressed and in place
Glad you got it sorted! The idea of back angle is that the neck is angled down towards the headstock, and the soundboard remains flat...normally on a CBG this would be achieved by having the neck rest on, say, a lower block at the front of the box and a higher one at the back. Very simple and easy to do, and once you've tried the results you won't go back!
I will definitely incorporate it into the 1949 Ohio LPG I'm working on. Still looking for something suitable to use for a neck- it's all salvaged materials so far. Somewhere between 11 and 15 degrees?
Having more back angle would actually make the action more consistently low all the way down the neck. You would need to use a higher bridge to compensate though.
I can't see there being any problems with using longer bolts, or countersinking the heads. The pickup ring is hardly load-bearing so I don't think the strength should be that much of a concern. If you can get the pickup level with the top of the ring you should be fine.
Great, OK thanks, much appreciated, I'll try that. Although I like your back angle idea, I think I'll use it on the next guitar I'm building, as I'd have to take the guitar apart to change the neck angle.
I think the reason I didn't try it with this one to begin with is because the fretboard overhangs the soundboard. Guess I could have angled the soundboard where it overhangs.
That's something, I didn't realize it would make the action consistently low!
Hi Richey- here's a picture from the side. The Oak mounting ring or whatever you call it is flush with the fretboard. The pickup is sitting up higher than the fretboard about 1/8". The only thing stopping it from coming down any further is the pickup bolts being too short. There's lots of room under the pickup. If I adjust it any lower, the bolts will come undone from the pickup.
I could make the mounting ring thinner or countersink the bolts, but I didn't really want to do that because it'll make the mounting ring weaker.
The second picture I uploaded the first time shows the pickup fully lowered- I'm thinking it should be able to at least come down flush with the ring. Maybe those bolts they give you are fine if you're putting the pickup in a Telecaster or something.
More back angle on the neck is a good idea, except I didn't want the strings too high as I'm not playing slide.
Would using bolts maybe 1/4" longer work you think?
Would you be able to put some small nuts or washers underneath the pickup mounting bolts to drop it down a bit?
Also, did you say your pickup is about the same height as your fretboard? That's what I normally do and it generally works out fine.
Yet another option would be to get some (or some more) back angle on the neck, which would raise the box end of the fretboard and give you more clearance... you would need a higher bridge but it could actually improve the playability of the instrument.
Replies
Also I changed them one at a time without taking the pickup out by tightening them both up all the way, and then changing them one at a time- it kept the springs compressed and in place
IMG_00001637.jpg
IMG_00001638.jpg
I can't see there being any problems with using longer bolts, or countersinking the heads. The pickup ring is hardly load-bearing so I don't think the strength should be that much of a concern. If you can get the pickup level with the top of the ring you should be fine.
I think the reason I didn't try it with this one to begin with is because the fretboard overhangs the soundboard. Guess I could have angled the soundboard where it overhangs.
That's something, I didn't realize it would make the action consistently low!
I could make the mounting ring thinner or countersink the bolts, but I didn't really want to do that because it'll make the mounting ring weaker.
The second picture I uploaded the first time shows the pickup fully lowered- I'm thinking it should be able to at least come down flush with the ring. Maybe those bolts they give you are fine if you're putting the pickup in a Telecaster or something.
More back angle on the neck is a good idea, except I didn't want the strings too high as I'm not playing slide.
Would using bolts maybe 1/4" longer work you think?
IMG_00001636.jpg
Would you be able to put some small nuts or washers underneath the pickup mounting bolts to drop it down a bit?
Also, did you say your pickup is about the same height as your fretboard? That's what I normally do and it generally works out fine.
Yet another option would be to get some (or some more) back angle on the neck, which would raise the box end of the fretboard and give you more clearance... you would need a higher bridge but it could actually improve the playability of the instrument.
Good luck!