I have a few flat top boxes where I want to glue the neck on the top and swing the bottom open to fix/adjust electronics. What's a good way to screw the top on, or add a clasp? do I add some kind of wooden backer under screws? Any ideas?
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Dave are you thinking of something like this....the box unsnaps and the bottom swings away...that is the strings balls in the red circle
yes, thanks, that's the design I'm after, but I am using a box with no clasp to hold the top closed. I might use a small screw to hold the top closed.
Dave attaching the neck to the top is not the best design when using a flat top box....the reason being when you swing the bottom up to close it the bottom is coming up kinda at a angle and to accommodate for this you have to make the hole for the neck in the bottom half of the box a little wider than the neck for it to swing in.....This results in a loose fitting look around the neck when the box is closed...(.the neck to the top design is better for a box with some lip on the top half)
Anyway there are a couple ways around this if you are determined to have the neck attached to the top.
Use red oak (because it is strong strong) for the neck so you can make it as thin as possible where the neck goes into the box so the hole in the bottom half is as small as possible
OR
Leave the hinges in (for looks) but disable them and have the box "open" simply by disconnecting the top from the bottom (held together by a couple of iinconspicuous screws)..This way it doesnt have to "swing" to close.
And........geesh I forgot the third way lol....anyways I'm sure the other members here have some better ideas on how to approach the situation.
I understand thanks! I like the idea where the bottom just drops straight down from the top. I could glue posts in all corners and just screw the top down. Good idea, Thanks!!
You could also flip it around and attach the neck to the BOTTOM of the box and then use the lid as your "access hatch" for getting to stuff inside the guitar. Lot less fuss and you don't have to unstring it. :)
That is the problem we all have to face. We want access, but no rattles. I have started building my own boxes and use a removeable back fastened with screws. With a standard cigar box, you can try fastening the top with hide glue. It can be released with water. It will take a little patience though. For good acoustic sound, I don't let the top touch the neck, except at the very front and back. I relieve the neck top inside the box around 1/8".
Have a look at this one
I make the portion that goes through the box "T" shaped, with the bottom of the "T" secured through the bottom of the box. Add rigidity to the portion that passes through the box, makes a good place for a strap button to screw into, also. The bridge and string tension hold the lid shut, the metal corners keep it from rattling. One the strings and corners are removed the lid can be opened and the guts accessed. Here's one completely assembled with the metal box corners securing the lid. Corners came from CB Gitty.
With metal corners installed