Wes . I checked your blog and for adding the depth stop to the blade , that's what I'm talking about . It's the "real deal" without having to put out the big money. That's great that it's working for you . I'll definitely go that route on my next project . Thanks
Take a look at my blog page that talks about the HF JFCS and the jig I made.
-WY
Richard Markham said:
Having only done three fretboards myself the search for a thin "fine kerf" blade lead ne to Harbour Frieght also , so i have the .024" kerf saw Wes Yates mentions . But being a "pull" saw , cutting on the backstroke , things happen quick and I chickened on the fear of going too deep , so I've been using an "Xacto" razor saw . The slower pace (still quick) is good for me as a beginner . Later I'll probably use the flush cut saw after I drill two holes in it and add a depth stop .
If you buy frets from Stewart-MacDonald or even CBGitty here, they have a .025" tang. You would need a corresponding saw to make the slots. Keeps em from slipping out.
-WY
John Wendell said:
Wes Yates, what do you mean by "Stewmac-like frets"???
After dressing the ends, if I have any loose frets, I superglue them. When you're filing the ends, you'll hear any that need a spot of glue (assuming you haven't got a tang-crimper).
I remember seeing someone put a drop of superglue on each end of the fret after it was installed/clipped - but I think they also had a binding.
I am using the japanese stew mac saw, and the CBGitty stainless frets.
It might have been my imagination, but it seemed like working on one side of the fretboard resulted in the frets sticking out a little more on the other side. But I couldnt 'slide' the fret with finger pressure.
I'll go without glue, and be a little more gentle when filing for my first fretted build.
I believe CBGitty says their frets have same dimensions as big name stew mac .. "Stewmac-like frets".
Having only done three fretboards myself the search for a thin "fine kerf" blade lead ne to Harbour Frieght also , so i have the .024" kerf saw Wes Yates mentions . But being a "pull" saw , cutting on the backstroke , things happen quick and I chickened on the fear of going too deep , so I've been using an "Xacto" razor saw . The slower pace (still quick) is good for me as a beginner . Later I'll probably use the flush cut saw after I drill two holes in it and add a depth stop .
Like Alan says, if you do it right you don't need glue. Try the Japanese Flush Cut Saw from Harbor freight. .024" kerf. Perfect for StewMac-like frets.
If you have a sawblade that is thin enough to cut fret slots, super glue won't be necessary. It's just one more thing to mess up a nicely-finished fretboard, and if a fret or two has to be pulled out years down the road, the glue will make that step more likely to do some damage.
Replies
Take a look at my blog page that talks about the HF JFCS and the jig I made.
-WY
Richard Markham said:
-WY
John Wendell said:
I am using the japanese stew mac saw, and the CBGitty stainless frets.
It might have been my imagination, but it seemed like working on one side of the fretboard resulted in the frets sticking out a little more on the other side. But I couldnt 'slide' the fret with finger pressure.
I'll go without glue, and be a little more gentle when filing for my first fretted build.
I believe CBGitty says their frets have same dimensions as big name stew mac .. "Stewmac-like frets".
-john
-WY
If you have a sawblade that is thin enough to cut fret slots, super glue won't be necessary. It's just one more thing to mess up a nicely-finished fretboard, and if a fret or two has to be pulled out years down the road, the glue will make that step more likely to do some damage.