What's the usual practice in setting scale lengths and frets? In most of the other discussions I've read, a lot of people figure out the scale length they want and build the guitar to that measure. In my case, I don't know what scale length I want. I've got big hands and relatively stubby fingers, so a longer scale would be better for me. My plan is to build the guitar, tune a string, and find out where it plays the octave, which will give me the location of the 12th fret. Double the distance from the 12th fret to the nut will give me the scale length, which I can plug into wfret and get a template. Is this a workable plan, or have I been smoking something?
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for what it's worth... some of my fav. /best sounding builds were unfinished....just shaped and sanded...
After some playing they get a "dirty in the grain" patina.... goes with the down and dirty sound....
Vincent Cuenca said:
Wichita Sam said:
On second thought.....
what you're proposing is authentic "prim". The first builders wouldn't have had patterns, rulers and programs to determine scale length and fret locations.... They did it by ear.... Gosh... how quickly we lose the "raw" when we decide we "know how to do it "right"".
Let us know how that build comes out....
the best,
Wichita Sam
I will. :-) What I was planning was to get the box on the neck, run a string across a couple of machine screws I have lying around, and see what I get. I have a feeling the scale length is going to be about 27", but don't quote me on that. Shaping the neck and putting on 900 coats of gunstock finish will have to wait. Thanks again, everybody!
what you're proposing is authentic "prim". The first builders wouldn't have had patterns, rulers and programs to determine scale length and fret locations.... They did it by ear.... Gosh... how quickly we lose the "raw" when we decide we "know how to do it "right"".
Let us know how that build comes out....
the best,
Wichita Sam
I will. :-) What I was planning was to get the box on the neck, run a string across a couple of machine screws I have lying around, and see what I get. I have a feeling the scale length is going to be about 27", but don't quote me on that. Shaping the neck and putting on 900 coats of gunstock finish will have to wait. Thanks again, everybody!
what you're proposing is authentic "prim". The first builders wouldn't have had patterns, rulers and programs to determine scale length and fret locations.... They did it by ear.... Gosh... how quickly we lose the "raw" when we decide we "know how to do it "right"".
Let us know how that build comes out....
the best,
Wichita Sam
Wichita Sam said:
"My plan is to build the guitar...".... ahhh... I'm not sure that is the 1st step. If you do that, you don't get to choose a scale length. It is chosen for you by whatever influences went into your build...
Have you ever heard "form follows function"? That way you get what you want. What you are proposing is "function follows form".... seems upside down to me... but hey... at least it will be a learning experience...
One thing you can do without costing too much time or $$$ is to get a single length of poplar (1x2) and put one string on it. Try that. I did that today to test a scale and fret layout in pencil and it worked really well. Granted I had to have a spare string, a tuning machine and something to act as nut/bridge, but I was able to prototype the fret/scale very quickly. Plus I can use the poplar later on since I didn't do too much damage.
"My plan is to build the guitar...".... ahhh... I'm not sure that is the 1st step. If you do that, you don't get to choose a scale length. It is chosen for you by whatever influences went into your build...
Have you ever heard "form follows function"? That way you get what you want. What you are proposing is "function follows form".... seems upside down to me... but hey... at least it will be a learning experience...
I have seen (not made) scales from 23" to 25". Mine CBG is 24". I use wfret to work out the length and numbers of the frets and that work(ed) out great.
Since my 24" scale has relatively closer frets than my full size acoustic, I'm not gonna go shorter than 23", tho others may, I dunno.
In wfret, if you input a scale and alter the number of frets, the fret lenths are the same. The scale changes the fret lengths. For example a 17.75 scale has fret 1 at 1". A little small if you ask me especially with "big hands and relatively stubby fingers". a 25" scale has fret 1 at 1.4" in wfret.
Replies
After some playing they get a "dirty in the grain" patina.... goes with the down and dirty sound....
Vincent Cuenca said:
what you're proposing is authentic "prim". The first builders wouldn't have had patterns, rulers and programs to determine scale length and fret locations.... They did it by ear.... Gosh... how quickly we lose the "raw" when we decide we "know how to do it "right"".
Let us know how that build comes out....
the best,
Wichita Sam
Wichita Sam said:
-Wes
Have you ever heard "form follows function"? That way you get what you want. What you are proposing is "function follows form".... seems upside down to me... but hey... at least it will be a learning experience...
the best,
Sam
Thanks,
Terry
Since my 24" scale has relatively closer frets than my full size acoustic, I'm not gonna go shorter than 23", tho others may, I dunno.
In wfret, if you input a scale and alter the number of frets, the fret lenths are the same. The scale changes the fret lengths. For example a 17.75 scale has fret 1 at 1". A little small if you ask me especially with "big hands and relatively stubby fingers". a 25" scale has fret 1 at 1.4" in wfret.