How tight a fit should there be between the neck and the box lid? I can get the neck to fit very snugly up against the lid, which looks real nice, but is it going to keep the lid from vibrating freely and thus damp the sound? Should I leave a small gap at the fretboard and tailpiece to allow for maximum vibration?
As far as tailpieces go, if I have a tailpiece that extends out over the lid, is it OK to have it touch the lid, or should I leave a gap? (Gotta get the maximum vibrations, after all...)
You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!
Vincent, you left out one important fact in your equation.
Is it an electric or an acoustic instrument?
To get the best acoustic response the top will vibrate freely and not touch the top.
If you plan on a pickup it doesn't really matter sort of...
A vibrating tailpiece is like a foot pedal effect almost, it adds something but is it harmonious?
These builds are acoustic. They're learner instruments: one is for my six-year-old daughter, and one is for me. I want them to sound good and be easy to play, so I won't be worrying too much about how pretty they are. (Kinda like my cooking; it ain't pretty, but it tastes good and there's plenty of it!) I've spent a lot of time in the photo section and gotten some great ideas for these builds: I'm taking things very easy and making sure each step is done right the first time. With any luck I should be done by Christmas. :-)
Mine sounds great, but I never would know until I finished it. Kinda like baking a cake -- could be good, could be cardboard.
-Wes
No doubt. But like cooking, it helps to know how the various ingredients react and interact so you're reasonably sure of a good product. If I ask the questions before i make the dumb move, then I save myself a lot of frustration. (Ask me sometime about how many racks of spareribs I ruined before I bothered to do research on the subject.)
Theres no rules, but this is how I do it.
Most guys on here will tell you that the more the lid can vibrate, the bigger the sound you're gonna get (there are plenty of other considerations too though!). I have the lid edges snug up against the neck, but notch out the neck underneath so that it doesnt touch the lid, except for right at the ends. I dont bother bracing anything , just sit the bridge on top and away you go.
Generally I screw the neck through the back or the ends of the box rather than the top so that its easier to get it open.
Have a look at a few 'in progress' pics though and get some ideas... different boxes often call for different designs!
Like I said, this isnt gospel, its just the way Im used too :o)
Take a look at the PHOTOs section and you might get some idea of what others have done. Personally, I have my neck glued to the lid. I have seen others glue to the bottom. Some have made a bolt-on neck. Whatever suits ya I suppose. I'm sure there is a great reason for not attaching to the lid. You can usually tell how others built theirs based on the sound hole placement(s), any holes at all (could have an electric pickup), a traditional sound hole and so on.
If you don't attach to the lid, its my guess you will want to reinforce the lid with bracing like in an acoustic. At least as far as the bridge is concerned. Again, take a look at what others have done.
You know, the funny thing is, I bet'cha each CBG is going to sound different -- even if its made as close to the same as possible. Mine sounds great, but I never would know until I finished it. Kinda like baking a cake -- could be good, could be cardboard.
Replies
These builds are acoustic. They're learner instruments: one is for my six-year-old daughter, and one is for me. I want them to sound good and be easy to play, so I won't be worrying too much about how pretty they are. (Kinda like my cooking; it ain't pretty, but it tastes good and there's plenty of it!) I've spent a lot of time in the photo section and gotten some great ideas for these builds: I'm taking things very easy and making sure each step is done right the first time. With any luck I should be done by Christmas. :-)
No doubt. But like cooking, it helps to know how the various ingredients react and interact so you're reasonably sure of a good product. If I ask the questions before i make the dumb move, then I save myself a lot of frustration. (Ask me sometime about how many racks of spareribs I ruined before I bothered to do research on the subject.)
Most guys on here will tell you that the more the lid can vibrate, the bigger the sound you're gonna get (there are plenty of other considerations too though!). I have the lid edges snug up against the neck, but notch out the neck underneath so that it doesnt touch the lid, except for right at the ends. I dont bother bracing anything , just sit the bridge on top and away you go.
Generally I screw the neck through the back or the ends of the box rather than the top so that its easier to get it open.
Have a look at a few 'in progress' pics though and get some ideas... different boxes often call for different designs!
Like I said, this isnt gospel, its just the way Im used too :o)
Take a look at the PHOTOs section and you might get some idea of what others have done. Personally, I have my neck glued to the lid. I have seen others glue to the bottom. Some have made a bolt-on neck. Whatever suits ya I suppose. I'm sure there is a great reason for not attaching to the lid. You can usually tell how others built theirs based on the sound hole placement(s), any holes at all (could have an electric pickup), a traditional sound hole and so on.
If you don't attach to the lid, its my guess you will want to reinforce the lid with bracing like in an acoustic. At least as far as the bridge is concerned. Again, take a look at what others have done.
You know, the funny thing is, I bet'cha each CBG is going to sound different -- even if its made as close to the same as possible. Mine sounds great, but I never would know until I finished it. Kinda like baking a cake -- could be good, could be cardboard.
-Wes