• I used a enchilada sauce can...  large diameter...  maybe 4" abt?

    stick in the can.

    two drywall screws through the can, into the edge of the stick.

    String pierced through the center of the can gave good spacing to the 1 x 2 neck.

    I use it w/or w/o a bridge.



  • I like to adjust the can back and forth a little for resonance, so I tend to treat the can as a mobile bridge by just letting the string pressure hold it in place (said string attached to the end of the stick). Once i've got the 'Sweet spot' I may add a thumbtack or two just inside the can-also, leaving the can adjustable lets me vary string height by placing thin wooden shims under the can...
  • Part of my problem is the can I used....Most all drink can is very thin metal...Plus I cut the top out it...Making it weaken...I do like the screws idea...

    • Try using a can opener. It'll leave the lip of the can so it maintains some stability.

    • I use a hammer stapler, slide stapler into can then hit the handle of stapler with a hammer, I usually put 3 staples inside of can.

  • I used toilet flange bolts and acorn nuts.  I pierced the can so I could slide the flared end of the bolt into the inside, gave it a half turn then attached to the stick.  Worked good. The acorn nuts look nice on the outside too.153432145?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

  • That's why I use the wood screws...No nuts. Though you could always use a pair of long nose pliers to hold the nuts inside the can while you start the bolts in place. As an old friend in the military vehicle restoring hobby used to say, "you can make it as complicated as you want".

  • Thank Thomas...I been putting my can on the top of the stick.... the bolt running though from the inside of the can with the nuts attach outside of the can...I was thinking of reverse it....It would be hard to attach the nuts from the inside...Would a wingnut be the answer?

  • I've been building mine with the stick inserted into the can and wood screws through the can into the stick.

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